A Third Visit to Northern Ireland and the Republic, 2022
May 17-June 1
Introduction
I traveled with 13 other travelers, our tour director, Brian, and our driver for most of the way, John. This was my second trip with Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT) and it was as full of wonder, knowledge, and personal interactions as was my first trip with OAT to Portugal and Spain in 2019. OAT plans trips with a host of interactions with people who live in the country where the group travels. In this case, we were in Northern, Ireland, specifically Belfast and Portrush and points in between. We began our trip with two days in Dublin before moving on to Northern Ireland. The third phase of our trip was the Northwest Atlantic Coast of the Republic Ireland with visits to the towns of Donegal, Westport, and Ennistimon. We branched out to various destinations from these base towns to see the incredible and varied countryside of Ireland with all the opportunities for learning something new, thanks to our interactions with people along the way. All of this documented below in the journal that I kept each day of the trip. As is my practice, I will include photos related to the text that I hope provide rich and exciting tapestry of the trip we took with OAT.
I traveled with 13 other travelers, our tour director, Brian, and our driver for most of the way, John. This was my second trip with Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT) and it was as full of wonder, knowledge, and personal interactions as was my first trip with OAT to Portugal and Spain in 2019. OAT plans trips with a host of interactions with people who live in the country where the group travels. In this case, we were in Northern, Ireland, specifically Belfast and Portrush and points in between. We began our trip with two days in Dublin before moving on to Northern Ireland. The third phase of our trip was the Northwest Atlantic Coast of the Republic Ireland with visits to the towns of Donegal, Westport, and Ennistimon. We branched out to various destinations from these base towns to see the incredible and varied countryside of Ireland with all the opportunities for learning something new, thanks to our interactions with people along the way. All of this documented below in the journal that I kept each day of the trip. As is my practice, I will include photos related to the text that I hope provide rich and exciting tapestry of the trip we took with OAT.
Dublin: May 17-May 19, Arrival and First Days
The Beginning: Our Traveling Group in Dublin
It all began in reality on May 17, 2022. Before that date, the whole trip was just a plan, something to wait for, and experience once postponed but rescheduled. On this date, the trip truly commenced. I suppose the impatience I experienced over a two-day period because the airline industry has lost its touch, was one of my remembrances. The plane from Charleston to Dulles to connect with the flight to Ireland was the first mind-bending aggravation. The plane from Dulles to Charleston was two hours late throwing off a rather long connection time of 7 hours at Dulles. However, the flight almost did not take place. The one-hour flight was going to take the crew beyond its allotted legal flying time in a 24-hour period, but we just made it under the wire. So that was a bit of good news.
However, it did not take long in Dulles to see that the 10:10 flight to Ireland was already delayed because a pilot crew member was delayed from flying from Newark to Washington, D.C. The delays grew from 20 minutes to over an hour, but we eventually took off over an hour and a half late. The flight went smoothly, except for the fact that I cannot sleep on a plane and the amount of discomfort to this poor old body was exasperating. We touched down right when the pilot predicted at 11:10 AM Ireland time but proceeded to wait almost an hour to disembark from the plane because there was no crew available to help with the docking and unloading of the plane. Getting by passport review and customs was quite easy, but I had a little trouble finding the OAT rep at the airport. However, I did and we arrived at our Hotel around 12:30 PM. My trip had begun about 25 hours earlier when Don dropped me off at the airport. Managing an airline has to be filled with complications, but the combination of so many snafus in the time frame is frustrating and causes the deep seeded anxiety that comes with traveling by air. However, as May 18 continued on, all was not negative. I began to meet the people on the trip which culminated in a delightful welcoming meal at our boutique hotel in the evening. My impatience gave way to early feelings of gratitude which promises to be an interesting trip.
Brian Beham is our guide. He is a very talented young man who clearly relishes his role as a tour director. He took several of us on a short walk around Dublin in the vicinity of the hotel and explained where the ATMs were, the pubs, various churches, and other points of interest. His Irish brogue is quite legitimate and adds considerable charm to the information he has to share with us. Hotel 7 is a quaint little boutique hotel with tiny rooms, but with a warm and inviting ambiance. The Internet works, my plugs that accept my charging devices here in Ireland are working well, and I can say as I write this in real-time that the first 24 hours of arriving in Dublin have gone very nicely. In addition to Brian, we have Tom and Eileen, Kemra and Randy from Colorado, Bob from Florida, Peter and Lyne from Michigan, Liz and Maureen (Remie), from Pennsylvania, Lisa, a friend of Kemra and Randy’s from Oklahoma, Susan from California, Mary, and Sherrie, two late additions from Oregon. Monica also joined us from OAT as a visitor for several days
The highlight of our first night was the dinner get-together at our Hotel and it did not disappoint. I had Sea Bass with rice, others had the Lamb, which they were all praising, and the desserts were very special. And of course, the Lager beer flowing from the tap in the little, but quaint hotel bar is delicious. Our host and the wait service were terrific. Brian did his little thing of giving us the “Rules of the Road.” Be on time, get to know each other on the bus rides, and share our joys and hobbies with each other. Brian modeled this later by singing several songs in his Irish tenor folk voice, while a little blond girl of about 3-4 years of age and the child of an unknown diner, danced spontaneously to his music. Brian is a musician with great talent. He is working on a Ph.D. looking at the connection between Music and working with Trauma patients. He is a parent to two foster children and at first blush, a truly remarkable person. I am not sure how old he is, but I would guess in his early 30s. His rendition of John Denver’s, “My Old Guitar” was special. I am sure we will be experiencing more of his talents along the way.
Speaking of talents, the travelers on this trip are loaded with special gifts that are just waiting to be shared in the individual and group conversations we will have along the way. Peter is a model train enthusiast, Bob has traveled far and wide, and retired from a life of sales. Lisa and Maureen are educators, so we may have something to talk about. I have to be careful about going overboard in sharing my previous trips to Ireland with the group. I will try to pick and choose and practice humility in the information I share.
Despite the frustrations with airlines, I can honestly say that we are off to a great start. I hope that we all stay healthy, be careful of potential hazards on our adventures, and begin to enjoy each other’s company. It is early in the process and I am sure there will be fits and starts along the way, but as I write this early on May 19th, I am greatly enthused.
It all began in reality on May 17, 2022. Before that date, the whole trip was just a plan, something to wait for, and experience once postponed but rescheduled. On this date, the trip truly commenced. I suppose the impatience I experienced over a two-day period because the airline industry has lost its touch, was one of my remembrances. The plane from Charleston to Dulles to connect with the flight to Ireland was the first mind-bending aggravation. The plane from Dulles to Charleston was two hours late throwing off a rather long connection time of 7 hours at Dulles. However, the flight almost did not take place. The one-hour flight was going to take the crew beyond its allotted legal flying time in a 24-hour period, but we just made it under the wire. So that was a bit of good news.
However, it did not take long in Dulles to see that the 10:10 flight to Ireland was already delayed because a pilot crew member was delayed from flying from Newark to Washington, D.C. The delays grew from 20 minutes to over an hour, but we eventually took off over an hour and a half late. The flight went smoothly, except for the fact that I cannot sleep on a plane and the amount of discomfort to this poor old body was exasperating. We touched down right when the pilot predicted at 11:10 AM Ireland time but proceeded to wait almost an hour to disembark from the plane because there was no crew available to help with the docking and unloading of the plane. Getting by passport review and customs was quite easy, but I had a little trouble finding the OAT rep at the airport. However, I did and we arrived at our Hotel around 12:30 PM. My trip had begun about 25 hours earlier when Don dropped me off at the airport. Managing an airline has to be filled with complications, but the combination of so many snafus in the time frame is frustrating and causes the deep seeded anxiety that comes with traveling by air. However, as May 18 continued on, all was not negative. I began to meet the people on the trip which culminated in a delightful welcoming meal at our boutique hotel in the evening. My impatience gave way to early feelings of gratitude which promises to be an interesting trip.
Brian Beham is our guide. He is a very talented young man who clearly relishes his role as a tour director. He took several of us on a short walk around Dublin in the vicinity of the hotel and explained where the ATMs were, the pubs, various churches, and other points of interest. His Irish brogue is quite legitimate and adds considerable charm to the information he has to share with us. Hotel 7 is a quaint little boutique hotel with tiny rooms, but with a warm and inviting ambiance. The Internet works, my plugs that accept my charging devices here in Ireland are working well, and I can say as I write this in real-time that the first 24 hours of arriving in Dublin have gone very nicely. In addition to Brian, we have Tom and Eileen, Kemra and Randy from Colorado, Bob from Florida, Peter and Lyne from Michigan, Liz and Maureen (Remie), from Pennsylvania, Lisa, a friend of Kemra and Randy’s from Oklahoma, Susan from California, Mary, and Sherrie, two late additions from Oregon. Monica also joined us from OAT as a visitor for several days
The highlight of our first night was the dinner get-together at our Hotel and it did not disappoint. I had Sea Bass with rice, others had the Lamb, which they were all praising, and the desserts were very special. And of course, the Lager beer flowing from the tap in the little, but quaint hotel bar is delicious. Our host and the wait service were terrific. Brian did his little thing of giving us the “Rules of the Road.” Be on time, get to know each other on the bus rides, and share our joys and hobbies with each other. Brian modeled this later by singing several songs in his Irish tenor folk voice, while a little blond girl of about 3-4 years of age and the child of an unknown diner, danced spontaneously to his music. Brian is a musician with great talent. He is working on a Ph.D. looking at the connection between Music and working with Trauma patients. He is a parent to two foster children and at first blush, a truly remarkable person. I am not sure how old he is, but I would guess in his early 30s. His rendition of John Denver’s, “My Old Guitar” was special. I am sure we will be experiencing more of his talents along the way.
Speaking of talents, the travelers on this trip are loaded with special gifts that are just waiting to be shared in the individual and group conversations we will have along the way. Peter is a model train enthusiast, Bob has traveled far and wide, and retired from a life of sales. Lisa and Maureen are educators, so we may have something to talk about. I have to be careful about going overboard in sharing my previous trips to Ireland with the group. I will try to pick and choose and practice humility in the information I share.
Despite the frustrations with airlines, I can honestly say that we are off to a great start. I hope that we all stay healthy, be careful of potential hazards on our adventures, and begin to enjoy each other’s company. It is early in the process and I am sure there will be fits and starts along the way, but as I write this early on May 19th, I am greatly enthused.
Thursday: The Fair City of Dublin
I am hopeful that I can provide a flavor of the Irish people, experience, and land as I go forward with this narrative. I took a very nice walk in the early morning on the streets of Dublin down to the river, alongside it, and back across a bridge with a stop at Starbucks for a bit of familiarity along the way. At 6 in the morning, the streets were already picking up, but it was not overly crowded and the wide sidewalks made the walking conditions quite easy. On O’Connell Ave, there are restaurants, stores, and shops to serve the people of Dublin. Huge buses with two levels hum up and down the street beginning to take the Dubliners to work. The walk was a good start to my day, giving me the satisfaction of knowing that my increased food and beer intake would hopefully be offset by my walking regimen. I knew there would be more walking during the day, so I remained hopeful for my weight-conscious concerns.
At 8:45, we loaded up on the bus with our driver Joe for a tour of the city. Our guide Brian told us of the many landmarks along the way. Brian is working on his Ph.D. in Music and Trauma and he has a marvelous voice alluded to earlier in this piece. He interspersed his travelogue with touching renditions of Irish songs that are close to him. We visited a very large open park where we were able to exit the bus and walk around. I am including some photos of that park that resides on the outskirts to Dublin where you get a sense of openness as you gaze at the green and lush countryside in the distance. Our final stop on the bus tour of Dublin was the Richland Barricks where we heard from Pat about the 77 brave women who stood up for the Irish Rebellion against the British in 1916. Pat spoke of many of the individual women, all of whom were represented with poster-type visuals of their particular contributions to the cause.
After a brief break of coffee and a snack, we heard from Terri, a survivor of the Industrial Institutions established to deal with the issue of unwed Mothers and their newborns in Ireland. Some were castoffs, often delivered to the institutions by their parents or local Catholic officials. They were then given tasks to perform in the industrial structures such as laundry and other mundane chores. Their newborns were taken from them and adopted out. Typical of this sort of treatment and in addition to the horrors felt by the mothers robbed of their children, there were many scandals of abuse and illegal operations that took place. Terri was a victim of these horrors and shared her story with us. She told it in a straightforward manner that kept us engaged as sympathetic listeners. Her story was not an easy one to hear, but she was brave in telling it and has been an instrument for change as these stories, hidden for years have begun to be told. It was not a happy story and Terri still struggles with the consequences of the policies of the Irish government and the Catholic Church.
Our formal tour ended about 2 PM and I took a well-needed nap for a couple of hours. I wandered off by myself for a pub meal of Guinness Irish Stew with a Smithwick’s beer chaser. I finished off my evening by having a drink with Bob, Susan, and a couple of other traveling buddies, in the lovely bar of Hotel 7. I struggled with sleeping that night, probably because of the nap that I took in the afternoon and the fact I was still recovering from the plane flight.
I am hopeful that I can provide a flavor of the Irish people, experience, and land as I go forward with this narrative. I took a very nice walk in the early morning on the streets of Dublin down to the river, alongside it, and back across a bridge with a stop at Starbucks for a bit of familiarity along the way. At 6 in the morning, the streets were already picking up, but it was not overly crowded and the wide sidewalks made the walking conditions quite easy. On O’Connell Ave, there are restaurants, stores, and shops to serve the people of Dublin. Huge buses with two levels hum up and down the street beginning to take the Dubliners to work. The walk was a good start to my day, giving me the satisfaction of knowing that my increased food and beer intake would hopefully be offset by my walking regimen. I knew there would be more walking during the day, so I remained hopeful for my weight-conscious concerns.
At 8:45, we loaded up on the bus with our driver Joe for a tour of the city. Our guide Brian told us of the many landmarks along the way. Brian is working on his Ph.D. in Music and Trauma and he has a marvelous voice alluded to earlier in this piece. He interspersed his travelogue with touching renditions of Irish songs that are close to him. We visited a very large open park where we were able to exit the bus and walk around. I am including some photos of that park that resides on the outskirts to Dublin where you get a sense of openness as you gaze at the green and lush countryside in the distance. Our final stop on the bus tour of Dublin was the Richland Barricks where we heard from Pat about the 77 brave women who stood up for the Irish Rebellion against the British in 1916. Pat spoke of many of the individual women, all of whom were represented with poster-type visuals of their particular contributions to the cause.
After a brief break of coffee and a snack, we heard from Terri, a survivor of the Industrial Institutions established to deal with the issue of unwed Mothers and their newborns in Ireland. Some were castoffs, often delivered to the institutions by their parents or local Catholic officials. They were then given tasks to perform in the industrial structures such as laundry and other mundane chores. Their newborns were taken from them and adopted out. Typical of this sort of treatment and in addition to the horrors felt by the mothers robbed of their children, there were many scandals of abuse and illegal operations that took place. Terri was a victim of these horrors and shared her story with us. She told it in a straightforward manner that kept us engaged as sympathetic listeners. Her story was not an easy one to hear, but she was brave in telling it and has been an instrument for change as these stories, hidden for years have begun to be told. It was not a happy story and Terri still struggles with the consequences of the policies of the Irish government and the Catholic Church.
Our formal tour ended about 2 PM and I took a well-needed nap for a couple of hours. I wandered off by myself for a pub meal of Guinness Irish Stew with a Smithwick’s beer chaser. I finished off my evening by having a drink with Bob, Susan, and a couple of other traveling buddies, in the lovely bar of Hotel 7. I struggled with sleeping that night, probably because of the nap that I took in the afternoon and the fact I was still recovering from the plane flight.
Friday: Onward to Belfast on a Rainy Day
I did not walk on Friday morning, because we had to pack. our bags, eat breakfast and be ready to depart Dublin at 8:30 for another busy day of bus riding, walking, and listening to Brian and our guide at Navanfort. It was not a pleasant day of weather with the temperature in the 50s, the wind swirling, and the occasional Irish view of the sun which provided brief hopes of improvement. Brian continued the story of the institutionalized women and talked about his own research that he is doing for his doctorate. He hopes eventually to teach of the relationship of music as a therapy for trauma at the university level. He is a fascinating person. His own grandmother had been a product of these fearful homes. His grandmother’s mother died very young and she was brought up in one of these horrible places, but she survived to have her own family. Brian now looking to commit his life to tell these stories as a helpful way for the victims to heal.
We were on our way to Belfast, but we stopped at NavanFort in the southernmost county of Northern Ireland. We heard and were presented information about what was like to live in this area around 75 BC. The natives lived in clans, in structures made out of the dried remains of local vegetation. A family, often of large numbers lived in these shelters, with a fire burning inside and with sleeping accommodations. The gentleman who told us of this early pre-Christian civilization was dressed in the clothing of the times and talked of the customs of clans living together. There were kings, but they were not royalty. Each clan was a separate entity and the hope was to keep the peace with the surrounding clans. However, there were plenty of opportunities and fascinating legends of conflicts that occurred.
We walked to the top of one of the mounds where the ashes of many were buried and where the spiritual center of the clan took place. The scenery of the surrounding countryside was beautiful from the pinnacle of the mounds. I wondered if I could make the climb, but I did and was rewarded with many beautiful landscaped photos.
We left Navanfort and continued to a Cider brewery where we were given a wonderful tour and lunch with cider samples to boot from Danny and the owners, Phil and Helen. I will let the several photos below speak for the tour. Our lunch was composed of a delicious vegetable soup, a warmed croissant with a tasty vegetable filling, a delicious apple tart made with the apples from the orchard, and a choice of cider from the tasting. The enthusiasm, humor, and wealth of information about the workings of this orchard farm displayed the passion and love of the workers for their product. It was a fun, informative, and satisfying afternoon.
I did not walk on Friday morning, because we had to pack. our bags, eat breakfast and be ready to depart Dublin at 8:30 for another busy day of bus riding, walking, and listening to Brian and our guide at Navanfort. It was not a pleasant day of weather with the temperature in the 50s, the wind swirling, and the occasional Irish view of the sun which provided brief hopes of improvement. Brian continued the story of the institutionalized women and talked about his own research that he is doing for his doctorate. He hopes eventually to teach of the relationship of music as a therapy for trauma at the university level. He is a fascinating person. His own grandmother had been a product of these fearful homes. His grandmother’s mother died very young and she was brought up in one of these horrible places, but she survived to have her own family. Brian now looking to commit his life to tell these stories as a helpful way for the victims to heal.
We were on our way to Belfast, but we stopped at NavanFort in the southernmost county of Northern Ireland. We heard and were presented information about what was like to live in this area around 75 BC. The natives lived in clans, in structures made out of the dried remains of local vegetation. A family, often of large numbers lived in these shelters, with a fire burning inside and with sleeping accommodations. The gentleman who told us of this early pre-Christian civilization was dressed in the clothing of the times and talked of the customs of clans living together. There were kings, but they were not royalty. Each clan was a separate entity and the hope was to keep the peace with the surrounding clans. However, there were plenty of opportunities and fascinating legends of conflicts that occurred.
We walked to the top of one of the mounds where the ashes of many were buried and where the spiritual center of the clan took place. The scenery of the surrounding countryside was beautiful from the pinnacle of the mounds. I wondered if I could make the climb, but I did and was rewarded with many beautiful landscaped photos.
We left Navanfort and continued to a Cider brewery where we were given a wonderful tour and lunch with cider samples to boot from Danny and the owners, Phil and Helen. I will let the several photos below speak for the tour. Our lunch was composed of a delicious vegetable soup, a warmed croissant with a tasty vegetable filling, a delicious apple tart made with the apples from the orchard, and a choice of cider from the tasting. The enthusiasm, humor, and wealth of information about the workings of this orchard farm displayed the passion and love of the workers for their product. It was a fun, informative, and satisfying afternoon.
Saturday
This was a highly informative day with particular emphasis on the crisis or ”Troubles” involving the Catholics and the Protestants of Northern Ireland from about 1969 to the final peace agreement in 1994. We had a Black Taxi tour with Billy as our driver/guide who talked nonstop for about an hour and a half about the conflict. He was raised Catholic, so we got his view of the crisis with an emphasis on the discrimination against Catholics, the protest movement for reform, his life in prison, and the aftermath. He drove us through the area of Belfast where walls were constructed to partition and separate the dwellings of both groups. He explained the meanings of several of the murals painted on the sides of buildings and on the walls, one of which was over half a mile long. According to Billy, the Protestants were favored in establishing the walls, because the wall that we saw backed up against the Catholic homes in tiny backyard spaces whereas there were much larger backyards between the Protestant homes and the wall. We were able to shoot photos of the various murals and I even took a photo of my signature after signing the wall. It was difficult to absorb all the information Billy shared with us because he talked so fast. He did allow for questions and he was quite knowledgeable. I dressed more appropriately for the chilly and windy weather with the threat of rain, but it was still breezy as Billy talked outside the confines of our Taxi.
Billy dropped us off at the Felons Club, which is an IRA-organized fraternity. 25 Years after the peace agreement we heard presentations from three participants. Mickey was part of the IRA and went to prison for killing someone. Jim was a Protestant and a member of the Ulster VD group, which like the IRA was illegal. Jim also spent time in prison for crimes committed during the “Troubles.” The third presenter was Lee, who was a transplanted British soldier who served two duties in Ireland during the Troubles. He did not go to jail because was a British soldier. The first major point to be made by these three men is that they sit in the same room talking about the “Troubles,” and because of these presentations, they have developed friendships with each other. So, the first point is that peace does exist in Belfast, but the walls are still up and as I found later on in a short conversation with a Protestant that I met in a local pub there is still anger among some of the survivors of the “Troubles.” The second point made by the panel is that the “Troubles” were not really a religious conflict, but rather the British rule represented by Protestants against native Irish people who were Catholic. They went to great pains to explain this difference to us. We spent well over an hour with them and gleaned a balanced view of the conflict, but also were treated to peace in action among the competing groups.
After our morning journey into the sea of “Troubles,” I was let off at City Center and stopped for lunch at the Rusty Saddle Pub. I enjoyed an Irish lager and some delicious garlic bread. I was there for about 20 minutes. It was in the pub when my Protestant friend engaged me, tried to buy me a pint, and wanted a selfie with an American. He was half in the bag, so when he started a conversation about the British/Irish Conflict, I got out of there. I returned to the hotel for a brief rest and for viewing a track meet on TV. Later I walked up to the Apple Store to purchase an SD cable for my iPad to transfer photos from my Panasonic camera. I found out later that I missed a demonstration close to where I walked by a group of protestors looking to expand the use of the Gaelic language in Northern Ireland. I would hear more about this later at our home dinner visit with Moira and her family.
Dinner with Moira was a special treat. She is 70 years old and has very strong opinions not only about the “Troubles,” but about all of the issues facing the world at this point. She is well read and a careful thinker about issues like the native language, the invasion of Ukraine, NATO, and the inequality between the very rich and the rest of us. She lives in a modest house, has raised seven children, and has 11 grandchildren with one on the way. One of her sons, Sean, and three of her grandchildren added a special treat for us after our dinner of Shepherd’s Pie and a can of Harp. Later, I had a little bit of Jameson Whiskey to lighten up my evening. Moira was more than generous with her libations. We talked a lot about politics during dinner and Moira has a special positive feeling toward Marx, which was quite interesting and led to some lively dinner discussion.
However, after dinner, we convened in Moira’s living room where Sean, Moira, and her three grandchildren treated us to a Concert of Irish songs with a political bite to them. We also suggested and sang some songs along with them. We were there for only about 90 minutes, but they were very special minutes of camaraderie, sharing, and pure joy. What a powerful day we had in Belfast.
My companions were Randy, Kimra, Susan, and Lisa. When we returned to the hotel, we convened in the bar for a debrief on the entire day of our fascination with the “Troubles.” I truly received the Catholic viewpoint for most of the interactions with the exception of the panel, but it became clear to me one more time why traveling with OAT is a rich, fulfilling, way to travel and make new friends.
This was a highly informative day with particular emphasis on the crisis or ”Troubles” involving the Catholics and the Protestants of Northern Ireland from about 1969 to the final peace agreement in 1994. We had a Black Taxi tour with Billy as our driver/guide who talked nonstop for about an hour and a half about the conflict. He was raised Catholic, so we got his view of the crisis with an emphasis on the discrimination against Catholics, the protest movement for reform, his life in prison, and the aftermath. He drove us through the area of Belfast where walls were constructed to partition and separate the dwellings of both groups. He explained the meanings of several of the murals painted on the sides of buildings and on the walls, one of which was over half a mile long. According to Billy, the Protestants were favored in establishing the walls, because the wall that we saw backed up against the Catholic homes in tiny backyard spaces whereas there were much larger backyards between the Protestant homes and the wall. We were able to shoot photos of the various murals and I even took a photo of my signature after signing the wall. It was difficult to absorb all the information Billy shared with us because he talked so fast. He did allow for questions and he was quite knowledgeable. I dressed more appropriately for the chilly and windy weather with the threat of rain, but it was still breezy as Billy talked outside the confines of our Taxi.
Billy dropped us off at the Felons Club, which is an IRA-organized fraternity. 25 Years after the peace agreement we heard presentations from three participants. Mickey was part of the IRA and went to prison for killing someone. Jim was a Protestant and a member of the Ulster VD group, which like the IRA was illegal. Jim also spent time in prison for crimes committed during the “Troubles.” The third presenter was Lee, who was a transplanted British soldier who served two duties in Ireland during the Troubles. He did not go to jail because was a British soldier. The first major point to be made by these three men is that they sit in the same room talking about the “Troubles,” and because of these presentations, they have developed friendships with each other. So, the first point is that peace does exist in Belfast, but the walls are still up and as I found later on in a short conversation with a Protestant that I met in a local pub there is still anger among some of the survivors of the “Troubles.” The second point made by the panel is that the “Troubles” were not really a religious conflict, but rather the British rule represented by Protestants against native Irish people who were Catholic. They went to great pains to explain this difference to us. We spent well over an hour with them and gleaned a balanced view of the conflict, but also were treated to peace in action among the competing groups.
After our morning journey into the sea of “Troubles,” I was let off at City Center and stopped for lunch at the Rusty Saddle Pub. I enjoyed an Irish lager and some delicious garlic bread. I was there for about 20 minutes. It was in the pub when my Protestant friend engaged me, tried to buy me a pint, and wanted a selfie with an American. He was half in the bag, so when he started a conversation about the British/Irish Conflict, I got out of there. I returned to the hotel for a brief rest and for viewing a track meet on TV. Later I walked up to the Apple Store to purchase an SD cable for my iPad to transfer photos from my Panasonic camera. I found out later that I missed a demonstration close to where I walked by a group of protestors looking to expand the use of the Gaelic language in Northern Ireland. I would hear more about this later at our home dinner visit with Moira and her family.
Dinner with Moira was a special treat. She is 70 years old and has very strong opinions not only about the “Troubles,” but about all of the issues facing the world at this point. She is well read and a careful thinker about issues like the native language, the invasion of Ukraine, NATO, and the inequality between the very rich and the rest of us. She lives in a modest house, has raised seven children, and has 11 grandchildren with one on the way. One of her sons, Sean, and three of her grandchildren added a special treat for us after our dinner of Shepherd’s Pie and a can of Harp. Later, I had a little bit of Jameson Whiskey to lighten up my evening. Moira was more than generous with her libations. We talked a lot about politics during dinner and Moira has a special positive feeling toward Marx, which was quite interesting and led to some lively dinner discussion.
However, after dinner, we convened in Moira’s living room where Sean, Moira, and her three grandchildren treated us to a Concert of Irish songs with a political bite to them. We also suggested and sang some songs along with them. We were there for only about 90 minutes, but they were very special minutes of camaraderie, sharing, and pure joy. What a powerful day we had in Belfast.
My companions were Randy, Kimra, Susan, and Lisa. When we returned to the hotel, we convened in the bar for a debrief on the entire day of our fascination with the “Troubles.” I truly received the Catholic viewpoint for most of the interactions with the exception of the panel, but it became clear to me one more time why traveling with OAT is a rich, fulfilling, way to travel and make new friends.
Sunday
Attending Church on the road is no easy task. First of all, there are very few Masses on Sunday here in Ireland and the times do not match up with our group’s travel itinerary. So, this morning I tuned into the streaming of a Saturday night Mass with the intent of meeting my Sunday obligation. The breakfasts on these trips are bountiful and I have to choose carefully from the multiple offerings on the buffet. Eggs, either sausage or ham, and fruit have been my choices with some form of bread and coffee to top off the meal. Fortunately, I have been walking a great deal on this trip and I hope it keeps my weight in check. I do not have access to a scale, so it is anybody’s guess how I am doing. My jeans still fit, so that may be an indicator. We left Belfast to head to the northern coast around 9 AM. We stopped mid-morning at a seaside community where we could actually view Scotland across the way. We had a chance for some coffee and to wander around the small village taking photos of the seaside attributes of this place called Larne or perhaps Glenarm. After a 40-minute stop, we proceeded inland across plush green farmlands with plenty of sheep and cows grazing on the hillsides. Our next stop was at Glenariff Forest Park where we looked at the vistas of the glen off in the distance and then began our lengthy downhill hike to our restaurant for lunch. The hike was not easy on my legs. Going downhill has different problems related to knees and legs as one navigates gravelly paths, rocky surfaces, and a great number of steps of all sizes. We were rewarded along the way with photo opportunities with each other, of the vegetation that boarded the trail, and both the sound and the view of a steep waterfall with water churning downward to the river below. It took us about 30 minutes to make the journey. We ate at a restaurant at the bottom of the hill. I was not impressed with our lunch. It was really the first time since our trip began, that I was disappointed with the food. Overdone beef with gravy, mashed potatoes, and some form of vegetable mush were not appetizing. However, we sat around two circular tables and had lots of good conversation. We drank water and not alcohol, a rare occurrence for us. Alcohol was available, but everyone at our table declined.
After lunch, we boarded our coach and proceeded northwest to Portrush on the north coast of Northern Ireland. We arrived around 2:30 and walked around town while we waited for our rooms to be ready at the Portrush Atlantic Hotel. Susan and I stopped for a pint a the Harbor Bar where two men were playing stringed instruments and singing lots of good songs. Susan met a fellow Englishman and spent a good deal of time talking to him while I sipped at my Smithwick’s and tapped my feet and fingers to the music.
Our rooms were ready at 4 PM and after a two-hour rest, Susan and I met in the lobby and went looking for a light dinner. We found it at the Wine Bar just down the street where we could enjoy a couple of glasses of white. Susan had a Goat Cheese dish and I had Nachos ladened with jalapeño peppers. It was a half-feeble effort to eat lightly after our very heavy lunch earlier. Several of us met with Brian at the Kiwi Bar next to our hotel, listened to some more music, shared our musical knowledge with one another, and in my case, enjoyed a cup of coffee. I was back in my room by 9 PM and went to bed. This had been a travel day moving from the seaside urban center of Belfast to the smaller seaside vacation villages up north. It was a pleasant day that joined the other pleasant days on our trip to this point. I have a view of the Atlantic Ocean outside my hotel window and the cool breezes of sea air rolling in through the open windows. I am taking many photos along the way and I hope to share some here, but more on my Website that I will work with when I return home.
Attending Church on the road is no easy task. First of all, there are very few Masses on Sunday here in Ireland and the times do not match up with our group’s travel itinerary. So, this morning I tuned into the streaming of a Saturday night Mass with the intent of meeting my Sunday obligation. The breakfasts on these trips are bountiful and I have to choose carefully from the multiple offerings on the buffet. Eggs, either sausage or ham, and fruit have been my choices with some form of bread and coffee to top off the meal. Fortunately, I have been walking a great deal on this trip and I hope it keeps my weight in check. I do not have access to a scale, so it is anybody’s guess how I am doing. My jeans still fit, so that may be an indicator. We left Belfast to head to the northern coast around 9 AM. We stopped mid-morning at a seaside community where we could actually view Scotland across the way. We had a chance for some coffee and to wander around the small village taking photos of the seaside attributes of this place called Larne or perhaps Glenarm. After a 40-minute stop, we proceeded inland across plush green farmlands with plenty of sheep and cows grazing on the hillsides. Our next stop was at Glenariff Forest Park where we looked at the vistas of the glen off in the distance and then began our lengthy downhill hike to our restaurant for lunch. The hike was not easy on my legs. Going downhill has different problems related to knees and legs as one navigates gravelly paths, rocky surfaces, and a great number of steps of all sizes. We were rewarded along the way with photo opportunities with each other, of the vegetation that boarded the trail, and both the sound and the view of a steep waterfall with water churning downward to the river below. It took us about 30 minutes to make the journey. We ate at a restaurant at the bottom of the hill. I was not impressed with our lunch. It was really the first time since our trip began, that I was disappointed with the food. Overdone beef with gravy, mashed potatoes, and some form of vegetable mush were not appetizing. However, we sat around two circular tables and had lots of good conversation. We drank water and not alcohol, a rare occurrence for us. Alcohol was available, but everyone at our table declined.
After lunch, we boarded our coach and proceeded northwest to Portrush on the north coast of Northern Ireland. We arrived around 2:30 and walked around town while we waited for our rooms to be ready at the Portrush Atlantic Hotel. Susan and I stopped for a pint a the Harbor Bar where two men were playing stringed instruments and singing lots of good songs. Susan met a fellow Englishman and spent a good deal of time talking to him while I sipped at my Smithwick’s and tapped my feet and fingers to the music.
Our rooms were ready at 4 PM and after a two-hour rest, Susan and I met in the lobby and went looking for a light dinner. We found it at the Wine Bar just down the street where we could enjoy a couple of glasses of white. Susan had a Goat Cheese dish and I had Nachos ladened with jalapeño peppers. It was a half-feeble effort to eat lightly after our very heavy lunch earlier. Several of us met with Brian at the Kiwi Bar next to our hotel, listened to some more music, shared our musical knowledge with one another, and in my case, enjoyed a cup of coffee. I was back in my room by 9 PM and went to bed. This had been a travel day moving from the seaside urban center of Belfast to the smaller seaside vacation villages up north. It was a pleasant day that joined the other pleasant days on our trip to this point. I have a view of the Atlantic Ocean outside my hotel window and the cool breezes of sea air rolling in through the open windows. I am taking many photos along the way and I hope to share some here, but more on my Website that I will work with when I return home.
Monday
Today was focused on our visit to the Giant Causeway along the northern coast of Northern Ireland. As we began our trip, we stopped for short visits to view an ancient castle that sits on a steep cliff just outside of Portrush. We were able to take some photos of the castle ruins from a distance, but my zoom lens made the photos manageable. This was followed by a second brief photo opportunity at an Abby ruin and cemetery a little farther up the road. This second stop bordered a links golf course that welcomed many golfers as the ghosts of the Abby looked on.
The time spent at the Giant Causeway (Location of the “Game of Thrones”) was both a boon to my walking regimen and one more great opportunity for dramatic photos of an ancient geological wonder where the sea and the wind have eroded the rocks into very interesting shapes and dramatic scenes. I walked down the road to the rocky shore but opted for the shuttle on the walk back. We spent about two hours at the Causeway and it was worth it. It reminded me of the Slieve League Cliffs in Donegal, where we have an optional trip scheduled in the next several days.
Bushmills, the home of the famous Whiskey was our stop for lunch where we were able to take photos of the famous distillery of Irish Whiskey, but not go inside. It is subject to Covid regulations and is not open to the public. Our evening dinner was at 55 Degrees North where I finally gave in and had some fish and chips, a so, so version of the dish. This is our last night in Portrush and I sat for a little Jameson in the hotel bar while peering out of the window at the beautiful ocean scenery in Portrush.
Today was focused on our visit to the Giant Causeway along the northern coast of Northern Ireland. As we began our trip, we stopped for short visits to view an ancient castle that sits on a steep cliff just outside of Portrush. We were able to take some photos of the castle ruins from a distance, but my zoom lens made the photos manageable. This was followed by a second brief photo opportunity at an Abby ruin and cemetery a little farther up the road. This second stop bordered a links golf course that welcomed many golfers as the ghosts of the Abby looked on.
The time spent at the Giant Causeway (Location of the “Game of Thrones”) was both a boon to my walking regimen and one more great opportunity for dramatic photos of an ancient geological wonder where the sea and the wind have eroded the rocks into very interesting shapes and dramatic scenes. I walked down the road to the rocky shore but opted for the shuttle on the walk back. We spent about two hours at the Causeway and it was worth it. It reminded me of the Slieve League Cliffs in Donegal, where we have an optional trip scheduled in the next several days.
Bushmills, the home of the famous Whiskey was our stop for lunch where we were able to take photos of the famous distillery of Irish Whiskey, but not go inside. It is subject to Covid regulations and is not open to the public. Our evening dinner was at 55 Degrees North where I finally gave in and had some fish and chips, a so, so version of the dish. This is our last night in Portrush and I sat for a little Jameson in the hotel bar while peering out of the window at the beautiful ocean scenery in Portrush.
Tuesday
As we began the final day of the first week of the trip, we began our trek across Northern Ireland to Londonderry (Derry to the Republican Irish). The bus rides in Ireland are never very long compared to bus rides in larger countries, but they can take a while because of the narrow roads and the fact that you have to stop for cows crossing the road or large tractors moving from one farm to the next. We heard more this Tuesday about Bloody Sunday, which occurred in the summer of 1972. We visited the Free Derry Museum in Derry and listened to John, the brother of a casualty on that fateful day. John gave us another Catholic or Irish Republican version of that event which is often credited as the beginning of the ”Troubles” in Northern Ireland referred to earlier in this narrative. It was all about Derry, but with similar arguments that we heard from our presenters in Belfast. To be truthful, I was getting tired of hearing about the same atrocities. However, it might be easy to conclude that this issue is fully resolved some 28 years after the signing of the peace cease-fire that has survived. Even yesterday, there was a demonstration by families who lost loved ones during the ”Troubles” and still feel that justice to the “murderers” has not been done. Steps have been taken to remedy many of the discriminatory practices against the Irish Republicans, but there are still those soldiers who killed people on Bloody Sunday, without apparent provocation, who are alive and still have not been tried for their crimes. Although the politicians appear to take steps forward on this, there is still a process of a step forward and some steps backward. The fight has stopped, but the call for justice has not. My brain was moving toward overload on this particular topic and I was glad we were moving off of it.
After our visit to the Derry Museum, we met with our city walking guide Ronan, who believe it or not is neither Catholic nor Protestant, but of Chinese and Irish descent and a Buddhist. As we walked the “Walled City of Derry or Londonderry,” we listened to his velvety voice and articulate explanations of the historical meanings of the walls in the city and a more moderate view of the problems that still face Derry and Northern Ireland. He talked of the economics, the social interactions of the citizens of Derry, the political situation, and a good deal about how the next generation is nowhere near as concerned about the “Troubles” and their consequences or lack thereof. Ronan’s message was an optimistic hope that much of the current turmoil would be set aside in the future and that it was important to look to the future and not dwell on the past. He said all of this as we passed the empty shoe protest where the families of the dead were still mourning and calling for justice. The process continues.
Ronan left us after our informative walk and we retired to the Thirsty Goat for lunch just up the street. The vegetable soup and the Smithwick’s were wonderful as most of us in the group gathered at the Goat for lunch. Afterward, Susan and I walked the Peace Bridge and I shot a few photos of its interesting architecture. I am glad that I walked the bridge in the hope of peace in Ireland and an easing of the “Troubles.”
We drove on to Donegal and checked into our hotel called the Mill Park located less than half a mile from the small village of Donegal. Our dinner was at the Old Castle Pub where I enjoyed some Lamb Stew and a wonderful Apple pie dessert. Some of us reconvened back at the hotel bar for an after-dinner drink and some conversation about memories from earlier days in our college years. We have completed the first week of our journey to Ireland. I have made new friends and learned many new insights about this country. All of which takes us into the second week where we will spend all of our time in the Republic of Ireland.
As we began the final day of the first week of the trip, we began our trek across Northern Ireland to Londonderry (Derry to the Republican Irish). The bus rides in Ireland are never very long compared to bus rides in larger countries, but they can take a while because of the narrow roads and the fact that you have to stop for cows crossing the road or large tractors moving from one farm to the next. We heard more this Tuesday about Bloody Sunday, which occurred in the summer of 1972. We visited the Free Derry Museum in Derry and listened to John, the brother of a casualty on that fateful day. John gave us another Catholic or Irish Republican version of that event which is often credited as the beginning of the ”Troubles” in Northern Ireland referred to earlier in this narrative. It was all about Derry, but with similar arguments that we heard from our presenters in Belfast. To be truthful, I was getting tired of hearing about the same atrocities. However, it might be easy to conclude that this issue is fully resolved some 28 years after the signing of the peace cease-fire that has survived. Even yesterday, there was a demonstration by families who lost loved ones during the ”Troubles” and still feel that justice to the “murderers” has not been done. Steps have been taken to remedy many of the discriminatory practices against the Irish Republicans, but there are still those soldiers who killed people on Bloody Sunday, without apparent provocation, who are alive and still have not been tried for their crimes. Although the politicians appear to take steps forward on this, there is still a process of a step forward and some steps backward. The fight has stopped, but the call for justice has not. My brain was moving toward overload on this particular topic and I was glad we were moving off of it.
After our visit to the Derry Museum, we met with our city walking guide Ronan, who believe it or not is neither Catholic nor Protestant, but of Chinese and Irish descent and a Buddhist. As we walked the “Walled City of Derry or Londonderry,” we listened to his velvety voice and articulate explanations of the historical meanings of the walls in the city and a more moderate view of the problems that still face Derry and Northern Ireland. He talked of the economics, the social interactions of the citizens of Derry, the political situation, and a good deal about how the next generation is nowhere near as concerned about the “Troubles” and their consequences or lack thereof. Ronan’s message was an optimistic hope that much of the current turmoil would be set aside in the future and that it was important to look to the future and not dwell on the past. He said all of this as we passed the empty shoe protest where the families of the dead were still mourning and calling for justice. The process continues.
Ronan left us after our informative walk and we retired to the Thirsty Goat for lunch just up the street. The vegetable soup and the Smithwick’s were wonderful as most of us in the group gathered at the Goat for lunch. Afterward, Susan and I walked the Peace Bridge and I shot a few photos of its interesting architecture. I am glad that I walked the bridge in the hope of peace in Ireland and an easing of the “Troubles.”
We drove on to Donegal and checked into our hotel called the Mill Park located less than half a mile from the small village of Donegal. Our dinner was at the Old Castle Pub where I enjoyed some Lamb Stew and a wonderful Apple pie dessert. Some of us reconvened back at the hotel bar for an after-dinner drink and some conversation about memories from earlier days in our college years. We have completed the first week of our journey to Ireland. I have made new friends and learned many new insights about this country. All of which takes us into the second week where we will spend all of our time in the Republic of Ireland.
It is Wednesday, June 25, and our second week began today as we have moved into the Republic of Ireland for the rest of our trip. We are in County Donegal and more specifically in Donegal Town. We spent the morning in a learning mode as we visited Cindi the Weaver where she explained and demonstrated her craft in a small thatched roof house overlooking the wild Atlantic Ocean and the Donegal peninsula where we will head on Thursday. Cindy did a marvelous and enthusiastic job of showing how she takes the yarns purchased from local yarn producing companies and moves them through the process of turning out a finished product with her creative designs weaved into the fabric. It is all about the preciseness of setting up the machines and keeping a close focus on what she is doing. I have seen a demonstration like this before in a different part of Ireland, but this was quite well done and with the added benefit of overlooking a bucolic Irish scene.
As we were moving to our second visit with an Organic Farmer named Cadhel, we were stopped by a police check on the road. We were pulled over and for the next few minutes waited for the police to do a safety check on the vehicle. We never had to get off the bus, nor did we answer any questions. This bus company has an excellent record with OAT and met all the requirements of the safety check. Our driver indicated that in his opinion the police were just proving that they could do this. They did it at our expense.
Our next visit was to Cadhel an organic systems farmer. I use the word system, because all aspects of the farm were interconnected. The cows, goats, chickens, turkeys, and pigs in addition to providing food also served each other as part of a highly sophisticated ecological system. Cadhel spent a good hour explaining his thought process in developing his systems approach to subsistance farming. He operates from the basis of three principals: ecological benefit, community connections, and economic promise. His point is that there is a lot of money in farming if you figure out how to manage a small ten acre parcel of land in such way that income flows in to provide a living wage for a family in an ecologically and interdependent environment. We ate a lunch from the farm composed of eggs, turkey, vegetables, grains, jams, and honey. It was incredibly informative listening to him. It also generated a more positive feeling about the country of Ireland following the extensive conversations about the “Troubles” in Northern Ireland.
In the afternoon, I tried walking in the pool with a final ten minutes in the hot tub. It was a nice counter to all the sitting on the bus that we have been doing. The scale in the fitness center was not working so I got a reprieve from the knowledge that I am eating too much on this trip. I had a nice piece of Cod for dinner with a side salad and a couple glasses of wine. This occurred at the Abby’s Market Restaurant in the small village of Donegal where we could easily walk from our hotel at the outskirts of the town. I sat with members of our group in the hotel lounge sipping Donegal Whiskey and discussing the results of the day.
As we were moving to our second visit with an Organic Farmer named Cadhel, we were stopped by a police check on the road. We were pulled over and for the next few minutes waited for the police to do a safety check on the vehicle. We never had to get off the bus, nor did we answer any questions. This bus company has an excellent record with OAT and met all the requirements of the safety check. Our driver indicated that in his opinion the police were just proving that they could do this. They did it at our expense.
Our next visit was to Cadhel an organic systems farmer. I use the word system, because all aspects of the farm were interconnected. The cows, goats, chickens, turkeys, and pigs in addition to providing food also served each other as part of a highly sophisticated ecological system. Cadhel spent a good hour explaining his thought process in developing his systems approach to subsistance farming. He operates from the basis of three principals: ecological benefit, community connections, and economic promise. His point is that there is a lot of money in farming if you figure out how to manage a small ten acre parcel of land in such way that income flows in to provide a living wage for a family in an ecologically and interdependent environment. We ate a lunch from the farm composed of eggs, turkey, vegetables, grains, jams, and honey. It was incredibly informative listening to him. It also generated a more positive feeling about the country of Ireland following the extensive conversations about the “Troubles” in Northern Ireland.
In the afternoon, I tried walking in the pool with a final ten minutes in the hot tub. It was a nice counter to all the sitting on the bus that we have been doing. The scale in the fitness center was not working so I got a reprieve from the knowledge that I am eating too much on this trip. I had a nice piece of Cod for dinner with a side salad and a couple glasses of wine. This occurred at the Abby’s Market Restaurant in the small village of Donegal where we could easily walk from our hotel at the outskirts of the town. I sat with members of our group in the hotel lounge sipping Donegal Whiskey and discussing the results of the day.
Thursday
One of the themes of the Irish messsage that is being presented to us this week revolves around the idea of community. This pattern continued yesterday as we traveled to the fishing town of Killi Begs located on Donegal Bay. Neely was our guide as he talked of the fishing life on the large fishing trawlers that are harbored in Killi Begs. He is now the father of four grown children and has been retired from the fishing industry for over two decades, but there was a time when he would be away for weeks at a time from his family. That put pressure on his wife to raise the children, while he did his best to make a living working on the boat, plush as it might be for a fishing boat. His children were still of school age when he retired an helped raise them in Killi Begs.
He spent his time telling us about the fishing life then and now. In order to protect against over fishing, the boats are only allowed out to sea three months of the year. They have that time to make a living for their families. They may work other jobs in the downtown area, but because of the plentiful harvest of fish, an enterprising man or woman could make a decent income. However, the downside is the pressure the fisherman’s time at sea puts on the family back at home. So, Neely talked to use about his efforts to run groups for fishing men on how to communicate with each other and with their families. Neely has become more than a fisherman in his life, but a teacher of how to cope with the fishing life. At the very basis of this is the importance of community, the town working together to support every member in the town. Neely expressed his passion for his work and communicated to us his compassion for his colleagues and their loved ones. He was not unlike Cadhel the organic farmer from the day before or Cindi the weaver working in cooperation her sister on the family farm to produce beautiful wool products, or our three panelists in Belfast working to bind the the broken ties that created the “Troubles,” or Terri who has worked tirelessly with others to bring about reform and regulation to the plight of unmarried mothers. It is about community and it is clear that we have been sent a message by these beautiful and friendly people in this beautifully green and lush country that it takes a village like Killi Begs to raise its children and to create an environment of harmony. It is not easily accomplished, but without people like Neely, it is impossible.
From Killi Begs, we moved on to Slieve League Cliffs, a beautiful, wild, scenic park located on the shore of the North Atlantic on the northwest coast of Ireland. I had been here before in 2016 and walked the long uphill road to the cliffs. This time, we road to the top in the bus and I was able to walk further up the mountain than last time. It is a treacherous walk for us older folk, so I walked up the mountain less than others in our group. The day was pleasant with intermittent bits of sunshine and no rain. However, the wind was blowing heavily and it increased with each step upward. It actually blew me sideways several times, and so I made my decision to proceed only so far. The place has been etched on my memory since I visited it in 2016, so it was inevitable that I shoot some of the same scenes, but I did find some new places to focus my camera. I had considered not going on this trip because of my previous visit, but I am glad I went, and could particularly applaud members of my group trekked to the type of highest spot at the Slieve League Cliffs.
We stopped for lunch at a very authentic looking Irish Pub called the Rusty Mackerel. I had might first Irish burger with beef, a slice of bacon, cheese, and an onion ring. The meet was too well fine for me, but it was juicy and the chips, i.e. French fries were great. More that that was the conversations we had about the morning. We traveled along the wild Atlantic coast coming back to Donegal and stopped several times for the opportunity to catch the sloping green fields falling toward the rushing and sometimes crashing waves of the sea.
Dinner was at the hotel restaurant and the salmon was not as good as the first salmon meal that I had in Dublin. However, after a day of downing abundant food, it turned out to be a light mean with only the salmon has the headliner. It has become a pattern for some members of this group to gather in the bar after dinner to continue our discoveries about each other. This evening was no exception and we had a wonderful conversation about the friendships we have had in the past and currently enjoy. It was a meaningful way to end a meaningful day.
One of the themes of the Irish messsage that is being presented to us this week revolves around the idea of community. This pattern continued yesterday as we traveled to the fishing town of Killi Begs located on Donegal Bay. Neely was our guide as he talked of the fishing life on the large fishing trawlers that are harbored in Killi Begs. He is now the father of four grown children and has been retired from the fishing industry for over two decades, but there was a time when he would be away for weeks at a time from his family. That put pressure on his wife to raise the children, while he did his best to make a living working on the boat, plush as it might be for a fishing boat. His children were still of school age when he retired an helped raise them in Killi Begs.
He spent his time telling us about the fishing life then and now. In order to protect against over fishing, the boats are only allowed out to sea three months of the year. They have that time to make a living for their families. They may work other jobs in the downtown area, but because of the plentiful harvest of fish, an enterprising man or woman could make a decent income. However, the downside is the pressure the fisherman’s time at sea puts on the family back at home. So, Neely talked to use about his efforts to run groups for fishing men on how to communicate with each other and with their families. Neely has become more than a fisherman in his life, but a teacher of how to cope with the fishing life. At the very basis of this is the importance of community, the town working together to support every member in the town. Neely expressed his passion for his work and communicated to us his compassion for his colleagues and their loved ones. He was not unlike Cadhel the organic farmer from the day before or Cindi the weaver working in cooperation her sister on the family farm to produce beautiful wool products, or our three panelists in Belfast working to bind the the broken ties that created the “Troubles,” or Terri who has worked tirelessly with others to bring about reform and regulation to the plight of unmarried mothers. It is about community and it is clear that we have been sent a message by these beautiful and friendly people in this beautifully green and lush country that it takes a village like Killi Begs to raise its children and to create an environment of harmony. It is not easily accomplished, but without people like Neely, it is impossible.
From Killi Begs, we moved on to Slieve League Cliffs, a beautiful, wild, scenic park located on the shore of the North Atlantic on the northwest coast of Ireland. I had been here before in 2016 and walked the long uphill road to the cliffs. This time, we road to the top in the bus and I was able to walk further up the mountain than last time. It is a treacherous walk for us older folk, so I walked up the mountain less than others in our group. The day was pleasant with intermittent bits of sunshine and no rain. However, the wind was blowing heavily and it increased with each step upward. It actually blew me sideways several times, and so I made my decision to proceed only so far. The place has been etched on my memory since I visited it in 2016, so it was inevitable that I shoot some of the same scenes, but I did find some new places to focus my camera. I had considered not going on this trip because of my previous visit, but I am glad I went, and could particularly applaud members of my group trekked to the type of highest spot at the Slieve League Cliffs.
We stopped for lunch at a very authentic looking Irish Pub called the Rusty Mackerel. I had might first Irish burger with beef, a slice of bacon, cheese, and an onion ring. The meet was too well fine for me, but it was juicy and the chips, i.e. French fries were great. More that that was the conversations we had about the morning. We traveled along the wild Atlantic coast coming back to Donegal and stopped several times for the opportunity to catch the sloping green fields falling toward the rushing and sometimes crashing waves of the sea.
Dinner was at the hotel restaurant and the salmon was not as good as the first salmon meal that I had in Dublin. However, after a day of downing abundant food, it turned out to be a light mean with only the salmon has the headliner. It has become a pattern for some members of this group to gather in the bar after dinner to continue our discoveries about each other. This evening was no exception and we had a wonderful conversation about the friendships we have had in the past and currently enjoy. It was a meaningful way to end a meaningful day.
Friday
Before I recount the day on the road, let me say a few words about the food on this trip. It is plentiful and for the most part quite satisfying. The beef is overdone and mixed vegetable offerings are generally not appetizing for me. However, the breakfasts have been consistently good at each hotel and they have offered significant choices for how to start our day. I really like the Irish bacon. It is a combination of our ham and bacon, but is less fatty and has more meat on each piece. The oatmeal has been good and the coffee just fine.
We have had a variety of lunches along the way, but except for the well overdone and not very tasty roast beef on the day we walked the Glen, they have been fine. Dinner has been best when I have the beef or lamb stew or some form of fish. The desserts have been delicious. The obvious problem is that my efforts to lose weight have been put in jeopardy, and I have yet to find a scale to keep me honest in maintaining my weight on this trip. My clothes still feel OK. I am walking a great deal which is helping with the calorie burn and I am trying to keep up with recording my data for Noom. However, there is no doubt in my mind that I will have to make some adjustments when I get home.
Today was a travel day as we moved on from the Town of Donegal in the County of the same name south to Westport in County Mayo. It was a pleasant drive along the coast with a stop at an ancient burial site from pre-Christian times, the Church where Irish poet laureate, W.B. Yeats is buried, and a terrific trip to the Museum of Country Living near where we had lunch. I chose to walk the grounds and take almost 100 photos of the landscapes, flowers and plants, ponds, and brooks. I chose not to spend time in the museum proper, except for a brief tour of the old house. For me, it was a good choice, I added over 4000 steps to my daily walking total and I enjoyed the sunshine and relative warmth of the afternoon, I am not sure why I avoid museum visits, but I did not want to spend the time reading about the old days when I could enjoy the hear and now of today.
We arrived in Westport around four and found our rooms in the beautiful Castle Court Hotel on Main St. My room is a delightfully restored room of the original structure and I am quite happy with it. We are here for two nights before moving on to the final leg of the trip. I walked the town a bit, ate in a local pub with my new traveling friends, and sipped a Smithwick’s later on in the hotel bar. I almost got into a heated discussion with a pro-Trump young guy from Westport, but I avoided the temptation. Susan, Bob, and I had a nice conversation about the trip in the beautiful sitting areas off the bar. It was a nice end to a nice day.
Before I recount the day on the road, let me say a few words about the food on this trip. It is plentiful and for the most part quite satisfying. The beef is overdone and mixed vegetable offerings are generally not appetizing for me. However, the breakfasts have been consistently good at each hotel and they have offered significant choices for how to start our day. I really like the Irish bacon. It is a combination of our ham and bacon, but is less fatty and has more meat on each piece. The oatmeal has been good and the coffee just fine.
We have had a variety of lunches along the way, but except for the well overdone and not very tasty roast beef on the day we walked the Glen, they have been fine. Dinner has been best when I have the beef or lamb stew or some form of fish. The desserts have been delicious. The obvious problem is that my efforts to lose weight have been put in jeopardy, and I have yet to find a scale to keep me honest in maintaining my weight on this trip. My clothes still feel OK. I am walking a great deal which is helping with the calorie burn and I am trying to keep up with recording my data for Noom. However, there is no doubt in my mind that I will have to make some adjustments when I get home.
Today was a travel day as we moved on from the Town of Donegal in the County of the same name south to Westport in County Mayo. It was a pleasant drive along the coast with a stop at an ancient burial site from pre-Christian times, the Church where Irish poet laureate, W.B. Yeats is buried, and a terrific trip to the Museum of Country Living near where we had lunch. I chose to walk the grounds and take almost 100 photos of the landscapes, flowers and plants, ponds, and brooks. I chose not to spend time in the museum proper, except for a brief tour of the old house. For me, it was a good choice, I added over 4000 steps to my daily walking total and I enjoyed the sunshine and relative warmth of the afternoon, I am not sure why I avoid museum visits, but I did not want to spend the time reading about the old days when I could enjoy the hear and now of today.
We arrived in Westport around four and found our rooms in the beautiful Castle Court Hotel on Main St. My room is a delightfully restored room of the original structure and I am quite happy with it. We are here for two nights before moving on to the final leg of the trip. I walked the town a bit, ate in a local pub with my new traveling friends, and sipped a Smithwick’s later on in the hotel bar. I almost got into a heated discussion with a pro-Trump young guy from Westport, but I avoided the temptation. Susan, Bob, and I had a nice conversation about the trip in the beautiful sitting areas off the bar. It was a nice end to a nice day.
Saturday
This was a fun day on our trip. Many felt the activities of today were the best so far. I thought they were just two more examples of why I have enjoyed this trip so much. Each of the three times that I have been to Ireland have been different. The first was a more traditional tour, but with some excellent experiences. The second was my highly personal trip to County Donegal and the wild Atlantic coastline. This third trip has had more experiences with the locals as well as giving me the opportunity to see many parts of Ireland for the first time.
We began with a trip to Tom the sheep farmer and incredible sheep dog trainer. It was in the beautiful mountainous area of Connemara. It was a first time visit for me to this district, but it reminded me of the highlands of Scotland. The vistas went on for ever from our vantage point on the Killary Sheep Farm. Tom and Holly the sheep dog put on quite a show as they moved the sheep over several fields bringing them home to the sheep pen at the end. Tom speaking in a normal voice, but with a specific set of commands and a cadence directed Holly from long distances as we all watched in awe. It was an incredible presentation of the teamwork between a shepherd and his dog. I have included several photos to represent what we saw and to give the reader a glimpse of the truly beautiful countryside of Connemara. We finished with an opportunity to ask Tom many questions about his profession and why he chose to work this large grazing farm begun by his family several generations ago. He provided some tea, coffee, and some goodies to quiet our hunger pains after watching such an inspiring show of skill and teamwork between a man and his dog and a whole bunch of sheep.
We then went up or down the road a bit to the Abby where we spent the next three hours exploring this Benedictine convent of nuns and their beautifully kept gardens. It was a self guided tour, so I was left on my own again to choose to wander the gardens rather than take the time to carefully read the presentations in the stately Abby. I did stop by the chapel and lit a candle for Terry, a practice I have done in many churches that I have visited on my travels. The three hours went by quickly and were capped off with a lunch provided by our tour. I just had the potato soup and a scone which were delicious. I will let the photos speak for the beauty of the place. It reminded a little of Glenveigh, the estate in Donegal that I visited on my second visit. However, one was an Abby, the other a castle, but both grounds were beautiful and worth the visit.
We rode back to Westport in our van and I crashed for a couple of hours before stopping in the outdoor bar for a beer prior to a very delicious dinner of a shank of lamb. I bought a drink for Susan and we chatted about life in general before calling it a night. I watched the first half of the soccer match between the teams representing England and the team from Madrid. It had been a good day.
This was a fun day on our trip. Many felt the activities of today were the best so far. I thought they were just two more examples of why I have enjoyed this trip so much. Each of the three times that I have been to Ireland have been different. The first was a more traditional tour, but with some excellent experiences. The second was my highly personal trip to County Donegal and the wild Atlantic coastline. This third trip has had more experiences with the locals as well as giving me the opportunity to see many parts of Ireland for the first time.
We began with a trip to Tom the sheep farmer and incredible sheep dog trainer. It was in the beautiful mountainous area of Connemara. It was a first time visit for me to this district, but it reminded me of the highlands of Scotland. The vistas went on for ever from our vantage point on the Killary Sheep Farm. Tom and Holly the sheep dog put on quite a show as they moved the sheep over several fields bringing them home to the sheep pen at the end. Tom speaking in a normal voice, but with a specific set of commands and a cadence directed Holly from long distances as we all watched in awe. It was an incredible presentation of the teamwork between a shepherd and his dog. I have included several photos to represent what we saw and to give the reader a glimpse of the truly beautiful countryside of Connemara. We finished with an opportunity to ask Tom many questions about his profession and why he chose to work this large grazing farm begun by his family several generations ago. He provided some tea, coffee, and some goodies to quiet our hunger pains after watching such an inspiring show of skill and teamwork between a man and his dog and a whole bunch of sheep.
We then went up or down the road a bit to the Abby where we spent the next three hours exploring this Benedictine convent of nuns and their beautifully kept gardens. It was a self guided tour, so I was left on my own again to choose to wander the gardens rather than take the time to carefully read the presentations in the stately Abby. I did stop by the chapel and lit a candle for Terry, a practice I have done in many churches that I have visited on my travels. The three hours went by quickly and were capped off with a lunch provided by our tour. I just had the potato soup and a scone which were delicious. I will let the photos speak for the beauty of the place. It reminded a little of Glenveigh, the estate in Donegal that I visited on my second visit. However, one was an Abby, the other a castle, but both grounds were beautiful and worth the visit.
We rode back to Westport in our van and I crashed for a couple of hours before stopping in the outdoor bar for a beer prior to a very delicious dinner of a shank of lamb. I bought a drink for Susan and we chatted about life in general before calling it a night. I watched the first half of the soccer match between the teams representing England and the team from Madrid. It had been a good day.
Sunday
This was another long travel day. We backtracked into Connemara for one more time, but went south toward Galway. We stopped for a look at a Center for auctioning cattle and sheep. One of the family members, Muiraue, in charge of the complex which included a hotel, gift shop and gas station presented a delightful explanation of what the family does to auction off cattle and sheep. She was both engaging and funny as she talked about what it was like for women to run a business where most buyers and sellers of livestock wanted to look for the man to deal with. Although at times she sounded a bit down on men, she did an eloquent job of explaining a tough business with the humor that gave her talk a lot of interest. She had us feel the wool of the sheep, which was very thick and mattted. We also were able to feel the horns of these Connemara Black-faced sheep as she held them for us to take a look. It was sort of a sequel to our presentation by Tom on Saturday. Tom brings his sheep to to Muiraue for auctioning. We were there in the auctioning ring for about an hour and it was an interesting beginning to the day. From there, we traveled south toward Galway driving by miles of beautiful country scenery. We began to enter the area known as the Burren, which are deposits of miles and miles of sandstone that mark the country side hills and valleys. It is a remarkable site, but one that impinges on grazing lands and agricultural use of the land. We stopped for a couple of hours in Galway where I wandered the streets on my own, just people watching and enjoying the sites of downtown Galway. A young woman busker was singing her songs on one of the plazas and her voice was beautiful and clear as she sang haunting and sometimes recognizable songs, projecting into her mike and strumming her guitar. There were other buskers on the street, but she was exceptional and I enjoyed listening to her for a few minutes. I stopped for a Smithwick’s and to watch some Gaelic football. I found my way back to the bus by our 2;30 departure time. We moved out of the Burren to the lush country side of County Clare. We had to. take back roads to Ennistimon, our next and last destination, because of a marathon race on the main road from Galway to Ennistimon. It was longer ride along winding and very narrow roads, but it also gave us a look at one more of the varied landscapes of Ireland.
We arrived at the Falls Hotel in the quaint little town of Ennistymon around 5PM and settled into our scenic hotel on the river. I met several of our fellow travelers in the bar for a beer and a salad for dinner. Many in the group have begun to express critical feedback about our guide and our trip. It is clear that the home office in Ireland has not communicated that well with us and with their guide about our journey. For me, it is unfair to overly criticize Brian for the problems. Yes, he is new to the OAT process, but I find him engaging, acceptably knowledgeable, and a caring guide. He is getting a bad rap from some of our group.
After dinner, I wandered along the river and the falls into the little village. It was very quiet on this Sunday night, but the falls provide amazing scenes and opportunities for photos. I was looking for ice cream, but was unsuccessful. I met Susan in the bar at 8 for a nightcap and returned to my room by 9.
I have loved the varied landscapes of Ireland as we have traveled from Dublin to the north and now back south to our destination at the Shannon airport. The land and sea provide dramatic landscapes all along the way and reinforces why this relatively small island in the North Atlantic invites me, now for a third time. The group has been delightful to travel with and the people of Ireland in the United Kingdom and in the Republic have been warm and wonderful. They are an hospitable people, as evidenced by not only our reception, but by the large number of Ukrainian refugees that they are housing during the Russian/Ukrainian war.
This was another long travel day. We backtracked into Connemara for one more time, but went south toward Galway. We stopped for a look at a Center for auctioning cattle and sheep. One of the family members, Muiraue, in charge of the complex which included a hotel, gift shop and gas station presented a delightful explanation of what the family does to auction off cattle and sheep. She was both engaging and funny as she talked about what it was like for women to run a business where most buyers and sellers of livestock wanted to look for the man to deal with. Although at times she sounded a bit down on men, she did an eloquent job of explaining a tough business with the humor that gave her talk a lot of interest. She had us feel the wool of the sheep, which was very thick and mattted. We also were able to feel the horns of these Connemara Black-faced sheep as she held them for us to take a look. It was sort of a sequel to our presentation by Tom on Saturday. Tom brings his sheep to to Muiraue for auctioning. We were there in the auctioning ring for about an hour and it was an interesting beginning to the day. From there, we traveled south toward Galway driving by miles of beautiful country scenery. We began to enter the area known as the Burren, which are deposits of miles and miles of sandstone that mark the country side hills and valleys. It is a remarkable site, but one that impinges on grazing lands and agricultural use of the land. We stopped for a couple of hours in Galway where I wandered the streets on my own, just people watching and enjoying the sites of downtown Galway. A young woman busker was singing her songs on one of the plazas and her voice was beautiful and clear as she sang haunting and sometimes recognizable songs, projecting into her mike and strumming her guitar. There were other buskers on the street, but she was exceptional and I enjoyed listening to her for a few minutes. I stopped for a Smithwick’s and to watch some Gaelic football. I found my way back to the bus by our 2;30 departure time. We moved out of the Burren to the lush country side of County Clare. We had to. take back roads to Ennistimon, our next and last destination, because of a marathon race on the main road from Galway to Ennistimon. It was longer ride along winding and very narrow roads, but it also gave us a look at one more of the varied landscapes of Ireland.
We arrived at the Falls Hotel in the quaint little town of Ennistymon around 5PM and settled into our scenic hotel on the river. I met several of our fellow travelers in the bar for a beer and a salad for dinner. Many in the group have begun to express critical feedback about our guide and our trip. It is clear that the home office in Ireland has not communicated that well with us and with their guide about our journey. For me, it is unfair to overly criticize Brian for the problems. Yes, he is new to the OAT process, but I find him engaging, acceptably knowledgeable, and a caring guide. He is getting a bad rap from some of our group.
After dinner, I wandered along the river and the falls into the little village. It was very quiet on this Sunday night, but the falls provide amazing scenes and opportunities for photos. I was looking for ice cream, but was unsuccessful. I met Susan in the bar at 8 for a nightcap and returned to my room by 9.
I have loved the varied landscapes of Ireland as we have traveled from Dublin to the north and now back south to our destination at the Shannon airport. The land and sea provide dramatic landscapes all along the way and reinforces why this relatively small island in the North Atlantic invites me, now for a third time. The group has been delightful to travel with and the people of Ireland in the United Kingdom and in the Republic have been warm and wonderful. They are an hospitable people, as evidenced by not only our reception, but by the large number of Ukrainian refugees that they are housing during the Russian/Ukrainian war.
Monday
This was just more interesting day on our OAT tour of the North of Ireland. It started with an optional trip to the Aran Islands just off the coast of Ireland near Galway. We took the ferry from Doolin, Ireland in County Claire to the smallest of three islands, Inis Ohr. To my surprise and acceptance, this island is different from the one I went to in 2014 on my first trip to Ireland, which was Inis Mor. My first clue was that I did not remember leaving from Doolin, nor did I remember the landscape of Inis Ohr. I was beginning to worry about my memory, so later after the trip, I checked my first Irish travelogue on my Website and found that I had now visited a second island of the three island Aran chain. We met with John and his wife, Una at their little cafe on the island where we were served coffee. John gave us some context for the history of the island and what we were about to see. The most obvious landscape marker on the tiny island are the many rock walls that were built from the stone. These islands are an extension of the Burren area on the mainland. John loaded us on his trailer pulled cart and took us around the island. We stopped to take photos of the ship wreck that occurred many years ago. I was also able to capture some of the walls from a vantage point below the hill on the island. We wanted our drivers of the tractor to stop at the top of the hill for a better photo shoot of the rock walls, but they did not hear us. We stopped again at a cemetery where the rock walls were not visible, but the many monuments to the dead were. We then headed back to the cafe for a delightful lunch of vegetable soup, and small sandwiches. We were given some time to wander the island prior to the departure of the ferry, and I chose to walk the sandy beach near the cafe. The sand was hard like back at Isle of Palms where I live and it was an easy good post lunch walk. We got on the ferry and returned to Doolin and our hotel in Ennistimon.
This was just more interesting day on our OAT tour of the North of Ireland. It started with an optional trip to the Aran Islands just off the coast of Ireland near Galway. We took the ferry from Doolin, Ireland in County Claire to the smallest of three islands, Inis Ohr. To my surprise and acceptance, this island is different from the one I went to in 2014 on my first trip to Ireland, which was Inis Mor. My first clue was that I did not remember leaving from Doolin, nor did I remember the landscape of Inis Ohr. I was beginning to worry about my memory, so later after the trip, I checked my first Irish travelogue on my Website and found that I had now visited a second island of the three island Aran chain. We met with John and his wife, Una at their little cafe on the island where we were served coffee. John gave us some context for the history of the island and what we were about to see. The most obvious landscape marker on the tiny island are the many rock walls that were built from the stone. These islands are an extension of the Burren area on the mainland. John loaded us on his trailer pulled cart and took us around the island. We stopped to take photos of the ship wreck that occurred many years ago. I was also able to capture some of the walls from a vantage point below the hill on the island. We wanted our drivers of the tractor to stop at the top of the hill for a better photo shoot of the rock walls, but they did not hear us. We stopped again at a cemetery where the rock walls were not visible, but the many monuments to the dead were. We then headed back to the cafe for a delightful lunch of vegetable soup, and small sandwiches. We were given some time to wander the island prior to the departure of the ferry, and I chose to walk the sandy beach near the cafe. The sand was hard like back at Isle of Palms where I live and it was an easy good post lunch walk. We got on the ferry and returned to Doolin and our hotel in Ennistimon.
At four, most of our group took with Brian and John in the van for a trip to Ennis and the Knox Pub for dinner. My friend Gary Knox will be pleased to know that I ate in his namesake. I had the fish and chips for dinner with a pint of Morretti, and Italian lager beer seen often in the pubs of Ireland in this area. After dinner we went to Brian’s long time friend’s home on the outskirts of Ennis where John told us a bit about his two acre self sufficient farm growing tomatoes, vegetables, and the hens laying eggs behind the electrified fence that protects them from the preying foxes that inhabit the countryside. John also gave us a little lesson in the sport of hurling which is just one more violent sport in Ireland requiring very little padding or protection.
The highlight to the evening and one of the highlights of the trip occurred when we were invited into John’s home for dessert that included a delicious apple pie and a brownie for me. After serving dessert, John, his wife, Frances and daughter, Maisie, and their friend Terry entertained with Irish jigs and reels for the next 30 minutes. Maisie plays both the fiddle and the harp, Frances, the fiddle, and Terry, Concertina and the Accordial. It was 30 minutes of great music with the harp playing by Maise standing out for me as a special treat. The little “family” concert was one of those special surprises that are part of OAT trips and always give you a strong connection to the life and culture of the people we visit on the trip. It happened many times on this trip as recorded here, but this was a highlight among highlights.
We returned to the Falls Hotel and Spa and then met in a vacant area of the hotel to listen to Brian play us a few tunes. I took a leap of faith and shared my voice with the group by singing Leonard Cohen’s, ”Suzanne.” without the benefit of accompaniment. I think it went OK. I was hoping others would take the bait to sing, but they didn’t. So, Brian, continued with his guitar and very pleasant Irish voice to entertain us. I left the group at his break around 9 PM and called it a day.
This trip has been a rich exposure to Irish culture and landscapes. How fortunate that I chose this third trip to Ireland, which has become a very special place for me.
The highlight to the evening and one of the highlights of the trip occurred when we were invited into John’s home for dessert that included a delicious apple pie and a brownie for me. After serving dessert, John, his wife, Frances and daughter, Maisie, and their friend Terry entertained with Irish jigs and reels for the next 30 minutes. Maisie plays both the fiddle and the harp, Frances, the fiddle, and Terry, Concertina and the Accordial. It was 30 minutes of great music with the harp playing by Maise standing out for me as a special treat. The little “family” concert was one of those special surprises that are part of OAT trips and always give you a strong connection to the life and culture of the people we visit on the trip. It happened many times on this trip as recorded here, but this was a highlight among highlights.
We returned to the Falls Hotel and Spa and then met in a vacant area of the hotel to listen to Brian play us a few tunes. I took a leap of faith and shared my voice with the group by singing Leonard Cohen’s, ”Suzanne.” without the benefit of accompaniment. I think it went OK. I was hoping others would take the bait to sing, but they didn’t. So, Brian, continued with his guitar and very pleasant Irish voice to entertain us. I left the group at his break around 9 PM and called it a day.
This trip has been a rich exposure to Irish culture and landscapes. How fortunate that I chose this third trip to Ireland, which has become a very special place for me.
Tuesday
This was the final full day our trip to Ireland and it did not disappoint. We started with a trip to the Cliffs of Moher where I really saw them this time. In 2014, it was foggy and I saw nothing. Today was sunny and bright and we saw the cliffs in stunning detail. I took many photos, many of which others have taken, but for me it was a first. We spent about 2 hours climbing steps and wandering the paths of the overlooks. I looked for Puffins, but did not see any. The views over the Atlantic and back into the valley of County Carey were breathtaking. There are trails designated as dangerous and they come with warnings. I did not take those trails, but I still saw just about everything the Cliffs of Moher have to offer.
From the Cliffs we traveled a short distance to a Sports facility that sponsors Gaelic Football, Hurling, Handball, and Rounders, a game similar to baseball. Several retired gentlemen demonstrated the finer points of football and hurling. They also provided us with a nice lunch. I thought this event, though well presented, was sort of anti climatic activity for our trip, but it was fine. The enthusiasm of the men who presented to us and to the woman who served us lunch was refreshing and friendly. We were back at our hotel by 1:45.
At 2:45, each member of our group flying home tomorrow was tested for Covid. All eleven of us who were tested came out negative, which was great news. All of us were nervous about this test, because we would have had to stay at our hotel at our expense for several days. Some of us celebrated after the test with a beer in the bar. Our debriefing was scheduled for 5:30 with dinner to follow. So, we had some time to kill and I took a lovely walk into the glen behind our hotel. The quiet of the forest and the gurgling brook provided a meditative atmosphere for walking. I spent about an hour on the walk and then returned for the debriefing session.
This was the final full day our trip to Ireland and it did not disappoint. We started with a trip to the Cliffs of Moher where I really saw them this time. In 2014, it was foggy and I saw nothing. Today was sunny and bright and we saw the cliffs in stunning detail. I took many photos, many of which others have taken, but for me it was a first. We spent about 2 hours climbing steps and wandering the paths of the overlooks. I looked for Puffins, but did not see any. The views over the Atlantic and back into the valley of County Carey were breathtaking. There are trails designated as dangerous and they come with warnings. I did not take those trails, but I still saw just about everything the Cliffs of Moher have to offer.
From the Cliffs we traveled a short distance to a Sports facility that sponsors Gaelic Football, Hurling, Handball, and Rounders, a game similar to baseball. Several retired gentlemen demonstrated the finer points of football and hurling. They also provided us with a nice lunch. I thought this event, though well presented, was sort of anti climatic activity for our trip, but it was fine. The enthusiasm of the men who presented to us and to the woman who served us lunch was refreshing and friendly. We were back at our hotel by 1:45.
At 2:45, each member of our group flying home tomorrow was tested for Covid. All eleven of us who were tested came out negative, which was great news. All of us were nervous about this test, because we would have had to stay at our hotel at our expense for several days. Some of us celebrated after the test with a beer in the bar. Our debriefing was scheduled for 5:30 with dinner to follow. So, we had some time to kill and I took a lovely walk into the glen behind our hotel. The quiet of the forest and the gurgling brook provided a meditative atmosphere for walking. I spent about an hour on the walk and then returned for the debriefing session.
The Last Tuesday Evening
Brian thanked all of us and said we were the best group ever. Then each of us had a chance to share our perspective on the trip. It was clear that everyone was happy with Brian as our leader, and loved the dog and shepherd demonstration, and several of the events in Belfast. Other activities were also mentioned. My take was that I referred to the three concepts shared by our organic farmer, Cadhel. He said his focus was on ecology, community, and economic decision making. I felt our trip was framed around those three ideas. The narrative of the last two weeks lends itself to a rewrite using the three concepts as an organizing tool. Since I kept up to date with this journal, I may be able to put together an essay using the three concepts as a framing tool for the writing and for the inclusion of photos. Well, I did not to that. I presented my journal almost as I created it during the trip. I tried to match the photos with the text as best I could.
Dinner followed and I had more opportunities to talk to Tom, Eileen, and Susan. We convened at the bar after dinner where we drank some Jameson and shared more experiences on this trip. Our little group was composed of Mary, Tom, Eileen, Susan, and Bob. I had promised Mary a Jameson, which I was able to fulfill and she returned the favor with a second drink. It was a nice farewell get-together on our last night. This was a trip that I will not soon forget. Traveling with thirteen other inquisitive travelers with our fun loving guide, Brian, created a special memory for me. In my three visits to Ireland, I have come to love the various beautiful landscapes, but I have also enjoyed all of the people that I have met along the way. This was a special group I traveled with and I thank each and everyone of the group for making my life more enriched. I love the final photo that was taken on our last night. It shows a happy group, thankful for a wonderful experience. I thank anyone who has taken the time to read this travelogue, but most of all have enjoyed presenting our trip as a reflection of time well spent
Brian thanked all of us and said we were the best group ever. Then each of us had a chance to share our perspective on the trip. It was clear that everyone was happy with Brian as our leader, and loved the dog and shepherd demonstration, and several of the events in Belfast. Other activities were also mentioned. My take was that I referred to the three concepts shared by our organic farmer, Cadhel. He said his focus was on ecology, community, and economic decision making. I felt our trip was framed around those three ideas. The narrative of the last two weeks lends itself to a rewrite using the three concepts as an organizing tool. Since I kept up to date with this journal, I may be able to put together an essay using the three concepts as a framing tool for the writing and for the inclusion of photos. Well, I did not to that. I presented my journal almost as I created it during the trip. I tried to match the photos with the text as best I could.
Dinner followed and I had more opportunities to talk to Tom, Eileen, and Susan. We convened at the bar after dinner where we drank some Jameson and shared more experiences on this trip. Our little group was composed of Mary, Tom, Eileen, Susan, and Bob. I had promised Mary a Jameson, which I was able to fulfill and she returned the favor with a second drink. It was a nice farewell get-together on our last night. This was a trip that I will not soon forget. Traveling with thirteen other inquisitive travelers with our fun loving guide, Brian, created a special memory for me. In my three visits to Ireland, I have come to love the various beautiful landscapes, but I have also enjoyed all of the people that I have met along the way. This was a special group I traveled with and I thank each and everyone of the group for making my life more enriched. I love the final photo that was taken on our last night. It shows a happy group, thankful for a wonderful experience. I thank anyone who has taken the time to read this travelogue, but most of all have enjoyed presenting our trip as a reflection of time well spent
Sláinte