Announcement:
This page of my trip to Ireland and Scotland is now complete. If your time is limited in looking at the newly posted Scottish phase, I recommend that you look at the narrative and photos on Applecross and John 0' Groats. They were the best day tours of the five day journey through the highlands of Scotland.
Initial Postings of Trip to Ireland: July 6-16-- (Old Entry, but Informative of my Process)
I returned from Ireland and Scotland on July 24. I am currently working on my photos from the trip and this particular page is a work in progress at the present time. I hope to have some initial postings by August 10. At this time, I have edited my photos for the Republic of Ireland's portion of the trip and hope to complete the text in the next several days. To provide context, I have transferred several of my earliest Blog entries to this page. The format here is to start at the top (the beginning) and follow the trip through to the end at the bottom of this page.
This page of my trip to Ireland and Scotland is now complete. If your time is limited in looking at the newly posted Scottish phase, I recommend that you look at the narrative and photos on Applecross and John 0' Groats. They were the best day tours of the five day journey through the highlands of Scotland.
Initial Postings of Trip to Ireland: July 6-16-- (Old Entry, but Informative of my Process)
I returned from Ireland and Scotland on July 24. I am currently working on my photos from the trip and this particular page is a work in progress at the present time. I hope to have some initial postings by August 10. At this time, I have edited my photos for the Republic of Ireland's portion of the trip and hope to complete the text in the next several days. To provide context, I have transferred several of my earliest Blog entries to this page. The format here is to start at the top (the beginning) and follow the trip through to the end at the bottom of this page.
How to Read this Travelogue
When I start to share an experience such as this trip, I am perplexed on how to present the information. I want to supply some text that provides context for the displayed photo without becoming a burden to the reader. My purpose is to have the photos tell the story of a travel experience through my visual take on what I witness. The text is to give some context to the series of photos presented. My ultimate goal is to provide a highly personal reflection on my visit to Ireland and Scotland in a manner that is informative; but more than that, interesting to the reader and unique in presenting events and places that have already been described or photographed by many different visitors to these two countries. It is important for me to keep in mind that the photos tell a story of my own sense of discovery as the trip unfolds. I am with my traveling companions much of the time, but there are other times that I take my own excursion to places the others may or may not have gone. For example, there will be photos of my early morning walks, always taken in solitude. There is my trip on the tram to Howth during our stay in Dublin. My friends went to the museums, I did not. However, even during scheduled and unscheduled stops with traveling companions, I may go my own way. I have my own visual representation of the beautiful Rose Garden Park in Tralee. When we stopped for a tour of the Muckross house just outside of Killarney, I did not take the tour of the mansion. Instead, I walked the beautiful lake framed grounds that surround the mansion and found a peaceful solitude and a place to stretch my legs after a very long bus ride to the Ring of Kerry. As you are probably aware, the minute you walk into a mansion or museum, you are severely limited in taking photographs. The personal view provided by my camera becomes non existent; and so I often choose to use the time finding my own way and shooting my own memories. There will be many moments on this trip when I wander off and catch glimpses of life that my traveling companions have not seen. They have done the same thing. So even though we travel together, we experience differently. Hopefully, this presentation is different enough to keep you engaged.
I have laid the page of this Website out in chronological order of how the trip unfolded. There will be exceptions along the way, and I will try to make those exceptions evident. I am using the locations where we or I stayed as the framework for this story. We spent four nights in Ennis, two nights in Killarney, and three nights in Dublin. I spent two nights in Enniskillen, Northern Ireland on my own. Finally, I spent two nights in Edinburgh, Scotland each of which framed either side of a four night stay in Inverness where I traveled every day with a group, but was largely on my own for the evenings in Inverness. We and I used these stays to travel outward each day to places of interest. If I have done my job correctly, the text and photos should articulate those excursions, It is probably OK to to skip around in the chronology. I am not sure you have to see Part I to be able to comprehend Part II, etc. So, do what works best for you in navigating this page. There are a lot of words in the beginning of this presentation. I tried to share my expectations and anticipation for the trip as it approached. As the page continues, my intent is to say less and let the photos do the talking. I may label some photos to provide explanation; but then again, I may not. I do hope you enjoy the experience.
A final word about the purpose of this presentation. I am not here to tell the history of Ireland or Scotland. I am not trying to give a back story in detail of the places where I stayed on this trip. Wikipedia is a source for finding out information about the places we saw. Use it as you need it.
When I start to share an experience such as this trip, I am perplexed on how to present the information. I want to supply some text that provides context for the displayed photo without becoming a burden to the reader. My purpose is to have the photos tell the story of a travel experience through my visual take on what I witness. The text is to give some context to the series of photos presented. My ultimate goal is to provide a highly personal reflection on my visit to Ireland and Scotland in a manner that is informative; but more than that, interesting to the reader and unique in presenting events and places that have already been described or photographed by many different visitors to these two countries. It is important for me to keep in mind that the photos tell a story of my own sense of discovery as the trip unfolds. I am with my traveling companions much of the time, but there are other times that I take my own excursion to places the others may or may not have gone. For example, there will be photos of my early morning walks, always taken in solitude. There is my trip on the tram to Howth during our stay in Dublin. My friends went to the museums, I did not. However, even during scheduled and unscheduled stops with traveling companions, I may go my own way. I have my own visual representation of the beautiful Rose Garden Park in Tralee. When we stopped for a tour of the Muckross house just outside of Killarney, I did not take the tour of the mansion. Instead, I walked the beautiful lake framed grounds that surround the mansion and found a peaceful solitude and a place to stretch my legs after a very long bus ride to the Ring of Kerry. As you are probably aware, the minute you walk into a mansion or museum, you are severely limited in taking photographs. The personal view provided by my camera becomes non existent; and so I often choose to use the time finding my own way and shooting my own memories. There will be many moments on this trip when I wander off and catch glimpses of life that my traveling companions have not seen. They have done the same thing. So even though we travel together, we experience differently. Hopefully, this presentation is different enough to keep you engaged.
I have laid the page of this Website out in chronological order of how the trip unfolded. There will be exceptions along the way, and I will try to make those exceptions evident. I am using the locations where we or I stayed as the framework for this story. We spent four nights in Ennis, two nights in Killarney, and three nights in Dublin. I spent two nights in Enniskillen, Northern Ireland on my own. Finally, I spent two nights in Edinburgh, Scotland each of which framed either side of a four night stay in Inverness where I traveled every day with a group, but was largely on my own for the evenings in Inverness. We and I used these stays to travel outward each day to places of interest. If I have done my job correctly, the text and photos should articulate those excursions, It is probably OK to to skip around in the chronology. I am not sure you have to see Part I to be able to comprehend Part II, etc. So, do what works best for you in navigating this page. There are a lot of words in the beginning of this presentation. I tried to share my expectations and anticipation for the trip as it approached. As the page continues, my intent is to say less and let the photos do the talking. I may label some photos to provide explanation; but then again, I may not. I do hope you enjoy the experience.
A final word about the purpose of this presentation. I am not here to tell the history of Ireland or Scotland. I am not trying to give a back story in detail of the places where I stayed on this trip. Wikipedia is a source for finding out information about the places we saw. Use it as you need it.
Several Weeks before Departure to Ireland and Scotland
Maps: Courtesy of the Lonely Planet Website
In just a few weeks, I will embark on my annual international adventure. I began this particular plan three years ago with a cruise of the Mediterranean, followed it a year later with a trip to Hong Kong and Mainland China, followed again by a trip to Tuscany and a bit of Northwest Italy last year. You can find my visual memories of Italy in the Travel section of this site. This year, I am taking a trip to Ireland and Scotland with a short visit to a part of Northern Ireland included at the midpoint of my trip. As a single traveler, I have been faced with the potential situations of being alone. However, because I book tours , I always have people I can meet and converse with as a trip proceeds. I will not bore you with the various ways I have accomplished this in the past, but let me share my plan for this trip with you to protect against too much "aloneness." I am traveling with a group of University of Wisconsin Alumni for the visit to the Republic of Ireland. This nine day excursion will not only show me the sites of central Ireland, but also reunite me with two individuals I met on the Italian trip last year and ensure me of at least 24 new acquaintances and potential new friends.
The first leg of my trip ends in Dublin. Currently, I plan to rent a car at the Dublin airport and drive for a two day visit to Enniskillen, Northern Ireland in the County of Fermanagh. Needless to say, I am nervous about driving in Ireland for the first time, but at this point I am welcoming the challenge. I have reserved a bed and breakfast in a rural area just 7 miles south of Enniskillen. Why am I going there? I hope to fill in some ancestral blanks about my great, great grandfather, Bernard Brady, who was born in 1830 and came to America in 1851. Staying in the B&B should allow me to meet and converse with my fellow lodgers at least at breakfast on the two mornings that I will be there. I also hope to see some of the interesting sites around Enniskillen, which sits between two lovely bodies of water, Upper Lough Erne and Lower Lough Erne. My B&B sits on the bank of the connecting river between the two lakes. From what I have read, Lower Lough Erne to the north of Enniskillen is the most scenic. Hopefully, we shall see, with the help of my trusty camera.
I drive back to Dublin Airport on Friday and take a short flight to Edinburgh, Scotland. The next morning, I join a tour to the Northern Highlands of Scotland. We stay for four nights in Inverness and use that as our starting point each morning for each day's tour. I fly home from Edinburgh on the 18th day of my travels.
I will use this Blog as a journal for documenting the trip and sharing several photos along the way. I may add photos to the Travel section of this site before I get home, but that remains to be seen based on the post processing software I will have at my disposal. If I take only my iPad, then I will not have the detailed functions of Lightroom. However, I do have some of the latest apps for post processing for the iPad, which may make it possible to create acceptable edits for posting. Taking my MacBook Air adds just a bit to the weight of my backpack, but it may be worth it.
This introduction to this posting is well before I leave, and its purpose was to help me conceptualize how I want to work with this site during the trip. I may change my thoughts at a later time. In the next several weeks, I may add some more comments as I ponder the coming travel events.
In just a few weeks, I will embark on my annual international adventure. I began this particular plan three years ago with a cruise of the Mediterranean, followed it a year later with a trip to Hong Kong and Mainland China, followed again by a trip to Tuscany and a bit of Northwest Italy last year. You can find my visual memories of Italy in the Travel section of this site. This year, I am taking a trip to Ireland and Scotland with a short visit to a part of Northern Ireland included at the midpoint of my trip. As a single traveler, I have been faced with the potential situations of being alone. However, because I book tours , I always have people I can meet and converse with as a trip proceeds. I will not bore you with the various ways I have accomplished this in the past, but let me share my plan for this trip with you to protect against too much "aloneness." I am traveling with a group of University of Wisconsin Alumni for the visit to the Republic of Ireland. This nine day excursion will not only show me the sites of central Ireland, but also reunite me with two individuals I met on the Italian trip last year and ensure me of at least 24 new acquaintances and potential new friends.
The first leg of my trip ends in Dublin. Currently, I plan to rent a car at the Dublin airport and drive for a two day visit to Enniskillen, Northern Ireland in the County of Fermanagh. Needless to say, I am nervous about driving in Ireland for the first time, but at this point I am welcoming the challenge. I have reserved a bed and breakfast in a rural area just 7 miles south of Enniskillen. Why am I going there? I hope to fill in some ancestral blanks about my great, great grandfather, Bernard Brady, who was born in 1830 and came to America in 1851. Staying in the B&B should allow me to meet and converse with my fellow lodgers at least at breakfast on the two mornings that I will be there. I also hope to see some of the interesting sites around Enniskillen, which sits between two lovely bodies of water, Upper Lough Erne and Lower Lough Erne. My B&B sits on the bank of the connecting river between the two lakes. From what I have read, Lower Lough Erne to the north of Enniskillen is the most scenic. Hopefully, we shall see, with the help of my trusty camera.
I drive back to Dublin Airport on Friday and take a short flight to Edinburgh, Scotland. The next morning, I join a tour to the Northern Highlands of Scotland. We stay for four nights in Inverness and use that as our starting point each morning for each day's tour. I fly home from Edinburgh on the 18th day of my travels.
I will use this Blog as a journal for documenting the trip and sharing several photos along the way. I may add photos to the Travel section of this site before I get home, but that remains to be seen based on the post processing software I will have at my disposal. If I take only my iPad, then I will not have the detailed functions of Lightroom. However, I do have some of the latest apps for post processing for the iPad, which may make it possible to create acceptable edits for posting. Taking my MacBook Air adds just a bit to the weight of my backpack, but it may be worth it.
This introduction to this posting is well before I leave, and its purpose was to help me conceptualize how I want to work with this site during the trip. I may change my thoughts at a later time. In the next several weeks, I may add some more comments as I ponder the coming travel events.
Introduction to Ireland and Scotland
In just a few days, I will embark on this year's international sojourn. I leave from Newark Airport this Sunday, arriving in Shannon, Ireland the next morning. For the next four days, we are centered in Ennis. We have time to examine the city, but will also travel to Galway, the Cliffs of Moher, and various other sites in the vicinity of Ennis. I have already spotted a couple of pubs on the map that should provide for some evening chats with my fellow travelers. After Ennis, we travel to Killarney where we stay for two nights. The Ring of Kerry and the Dingle Peninsula are on the agenda. The last three nights we spend in Dublin with day trips to surrounding sites, including the Balrney Stone and the Book of Kells. We also have plenty of time to explore Dublin. This portion of my trip ends on July 16, when my tour compatriots return to the U.S. I have rented a car and will explore driving on the left side of the road for several days as I travel northwest to Enniskillen, UK in northern Ireland. My great, great, grandfather left this area for the U.S in 1851, settling in a farming area of Illinois, southwest of Chicago. I hope to discover a bit more while visiting there, but it will take a little bit of luck. I am staying at a B&B near Enniskillen and I am looking forward to visiting this lake country area of Northern Ireland. I return to Dublin on July 18 and take a short flight to Edinburgh for the Scottish portion of the journey. I am staying in the center of Edinburgh, but will not have much time to explore the city. Early on Saturday morning, I join a Scottish Tour heading for a five day exploration of the Highlands of Scotland. We stay four nights in Inverness with day trips to Skye and various points along the Scottish western and northwestern sea coasts. We will also have some time to investigate the city of Inverness. I am staying in a quaint B&B in the center of Inverness. I return to Edinburgh on July 23 and leave for the U.S. on the 24th.
My hope is take many photos along the way that will eventually end up on various pages of this site or on a separate page dedicated to this trip. In the meantime, I intend to keep a journal on this page as the trip unfolds. I will include selected photos of interest along the way. So much depends on the WI-FI connections that I will have in the various places I am staying. I am sure that this little game plan will change along the way based on my energy level for keeping it up, time to enter the material, and having something of interest to say. Every couple of days between July 6 and July 24, feel free to check out the latest entries on this blog.
In just a few days, I will embark on this year's international sojourn. I leave from Newark Airport this Sunday, arriving in Shannon, Ireland the next morning. For the next four days, we are centered in Ennis. We have time to examine the city, but will also travel to Galway, the Cliffs of Moher, and various other sites in the vicinity of Ennis. I have already spotted a couple of pubs on the map that should provide for some evening chats with my fellow travelers. After Ennis, we travel to Killarney where we stay for two nights. The Ring of Kerry and the Dingle Peninsula are on the agenda. The last three nights we spend in Dublin with day trips to surrounding sites, including the Balrney Stone and the Book of Kells. We also have plenty of time to explore Dublin. This portion of my trip ends on July 16, when my tour compatriots return to the U.S. I have rented a car and will explore driving on the left side of the road for several days as I travel northwest to Enniskillen, UK in northern Ireland. My great, great, grandfather left this area for the U.S in 1851, settling in a farming area of Illinois, southwest of Chicago. I hope to discover a bit more while visiting there, but it will take a little bit of luck. I am staying at a B&B near Enniskillen and I am looking forward to visiting this lake country area of Northern Ireland. I return to Dublin on July 18 and take a short flight to Edinburgh for the Scottish portion of the journey. I am staying in the center of Edinburgh, but will not have much time to explore the city. Early on Saturday morning, I join a Scottish Tour heading for a five day exploration of the Highlands of Scotland. We stay four nights in Inverness with day trips to Skye and various points along the Scottish western and northwestern sea coasts. We will also have some time to investigate the city of Inverness. I am staying in a quaint B&B in the center of Inverness. I return to Edinburgh on July 23 and leave for the U.S. on the 24th.
My hope is take many photos along the way that will eventually end up on various pages of this site or on a separate page dedicated to this trip. In the meantime, I intend to keep a journal on this page as the trip unfolds. I will include selected photos of interest along the way. So much depends on the WI-FI connections that I will have in the various places I am staying. I am sure that this little game plan will change along the way based on my energy level for keeping it up, time to enter the material, and having something of interest to say. Every couple of days between July 6 and July 24, feel free to check out the latest entries on this blog.
Phase I: The Republic of Ireland, July 6-July 16
The Trip Begins, July 6-7, 2014
We left on time from Newark Liberty Airport on Sunday evening on United Airlines Flight 25. The Boeing 757 was relatively comfortable for a flight of 3200 miles. I sat on the aisle and actually entertained a few hopeful thoughts that I would get some sleep on the 6.5 hours flight. It was not to be. I have trouble sleeping on a plane anyway, but there was a woman with several gin and tonics under her belt sitting across the aisle from me who had the loudest and most raspy voice. I can blame the lack of sleep on her a little, but I still own the responsibility for a lifelong aversion to falling asleep in a moving vehicle. We arrived at Shannon Airport 30 minutes early. The airport is small and friendly. Going through customs was a breeze and in no time, the six of us from the east coast on this particular flight joined up with the AHI Representative who met us. The plane from Chicago with 17 additional tour members was 45 minutes late, so I had some time to get some Euros from the ATM and catch up with my medications. Although my five flight companions and I did not hook up during the flight, we had an opportunity to chat at the airport. I am getting nervous about the several days where I will be driving on my own. While riding the bus to the hotel, I tried to get a sense of driving on the left and navigating the numerous "round abouts" that are everywhere. Our Hotel is the Old Ground with significant history that covers three centuries of owners. Here is a photo of the lovely old lady taken from the very comfortable patio outside the hotel.
We left on time from Newark Liberty Airport on Sunday evening on United Airlines Flight 25. The Boeing 757 was relatively comfortable for a flight of 3200 miles. I sat on the aisle and actually entertained a few hopeful thoughts that I would get some sleep on the 6.5 hours flight. It was not to be. I have trouble sleeping on a plane anyway, but there was a woman with several gin and tonics under her belt sitting across the aisle from me who had the loudest and most raspy voice. I can blame the lack of sleep on her a little, but I still own the responsibility for a lifelong aversion to falling asleep in a moving vehicle. We arrived at Shannon Airport 30 minutes early. The airport is small and friendly. Going through customs was a breeze and in no time, the six of us from the east coast on this particular flight joined up with the AHI Representative who met us. The plane from Chicago with 17 additional tour members was 45 minutes late, so I had some time to get some Euros from the ATM and catch up with my medications. Although my five flight companions and I did not hook up during the flight, we had an opportunity to chat at the airport. I am getting nervous about the several days where I will be driving on my own. While riding the bus to the hotel, I tried to get a sense of driving on the left and navigating the numerous "round abouts" that are everywhere. Our Hotel is the Old Ground with significant history that covers three centuries of owners. Here is a photo of the lovely old lady taken from the very comfortable patio outside the hotel.
I had already connected with my two friends from Madison, Sally and Ann. We met last year on the trip to Tuscany and reconnected during my visit to Madison last summer. It was good to see them again. I checked into my room, took a short nap, and freshened up. At 12, I joined Ann and Sally for an initial trip down the narrow, shop filled, quaint streets of Ennis located on the historic, but only moderately attractive Fergus River. At one point, the town of Ennis was surrounded by the river, hence the name of Ennis or Innish (island) in Gaelic. The river no longer surrounds the town, but it is a central theme characterizing the flavor and culture of the town. It was busy walking the streets at noon on a Monday in July. Click on the photos to see the full images.
Later in the afternoon, our AHI Guide, Mary O'Donovan, took us on a walking tour of the town that included a wonderful, extensive visit to an ancient structure known as the Abby. See photos below. It is an effort to restore a structure to the extent that the original materials can provide a limited restoration. The texture of the old brick walls with the vegetation growing from its nooks and crannies gave an essential feel to the religious symbols preserved in the Abby. Our guide did a marvelous job of relating all of the history of the Abby as well as giving highly detailed descriptions of the origins and meaning of the religious symbols. In the meantime, my body ached from the lack of sleep and the relentless standing that went with our tour.
After another brief rest back at the hotel, I went for a bit of Smithwick's at the authentic Pub housed in the hotel. I talked with Dave and Peggy from Stoughton, Wisconsin, and we shared some insights about the current goings on in Madison. We had a delightful reception and full course dinner in the banquet room of the hotel, accented with beautiful harp music during the meal. During dessert, we were entertained by eight talented musicians, singers, and dancers . It was a marvelous evening. I was so tired that I did not fully appreciate what a wonderful first evening this was on our trip. I was in bed by 9 and did get four hours of solid sleep. However, here I sit in the comfortable and quiet lobby of the hotel banging away at the computer. It is now 3:16 AM. I am going to try and get a couple more hours of sleep before our big day tomorrow in Galway.
The Failure to Journal
The previous entry was the last one that has the flavor of a journal. I found Phase I of this trip to be very tightly scheduled with many long bus rides from one place to another. I quickly determined that the best I could do was to download my photos each evening on to my computer and leave it at that. Perhaps that is wimpy or lazy, but you had to be there to believe the very hectic pace of this trip exploring the Irish Republic, sometimes in the rain, and often in a foggy mist that made some of the sites only possible in our imagination or in a post card purchased at the well placed tourist centers for the sites we visited. From this point on, I am working from memory, two to three weeks removed, but helped greatly by the photos selected for presentation.
The previous entry was the last one that has the flavor of a journal. I found Phase I of this trip to be very tightly scheduled with many long bus rides from one place to another. I quickly determined that the best I could do was to download my photos each evening on to my computer and leave it at that. Perhaps that is wimpy or lazy, but you had to be there to believe the very hectic pace of this trip exploring the Irish Republic, sometimes in the rain, and often in a foggy mist that made some of the sites only possible in our imagination or in a post card purchased at the well placed tourist centers for the sites we visited. From this point on, I am working from memory, two to three weeks removed, but helped greatly by the photos selected for presentation.
Four Evenings and Some Daylight Time in Ennis
Daylight is plentiful in Ireland and Scotland at this time of year. It is light from 4 or 5 AM and stays that way until about 10 PM. Many of the photos in Ennis were taken by me on walks in the early morning. However, there were times, such as the entry on the first full day of our trip (above) when I was with the AHI traveling group and our guide Mary O'Donovan or with my friends from Madison, Ann and Sally, and Ann's friend Jim from Detroit. I will say and show more about these folks as this tale unfolds.
Ennis is a town of about 26,000 people located north of the Shannon Airport and strategically placed for day trips to Galway, the Burren, the Cliffs of Moher, and the Aran Islands. The scenes below provide a still photo look at the town over the four days we stayed there. The Fergus River that runs through the center of Ennis is not a very pretty river. When we were there, the water level was very low and it was clear that people sometimes used it as a dumping ground, e.g. the bicycle. However, it did provide a framework for the buildings in town and also a place for the ducks to bathe in the AM. We were so tired from our excursions at night, we did not venture out to the pubs following dinner. Instead, we were content to settle into the Poet's Corner at the Old Ground Hotel for a pint or two.
Daylight is plentiful in Ireland and Scotland at this time of year. It is light from 4 or 5 AM and stays that way until about 10 PM. Many of the photos in Ennis were taken by me on walks in the early morning. However, there were times, such as the entry on the first full day of our trip (above) when I was with the AHI traveling group and our guide Mary O'Donovan or with my friends from Madison, Ann and Sally, and Ann's friend Jim from Detroit. I will say and show more about these folks as this tale unfolds.
Ennis is a town of about 26,000 people located north of the Shannon Airport and strategically placed for day trips to Galway, the Burren, the Cliffs of Moher, and the Aran Islands. The scenes below provide a still photo look at the town over the four days we stayed there. The Fergus River that runs through the center of Ennis is not a very pretty river. When we were there, the water level was very low and it was clear that people sometimes used it as a dumping ground, e.g. the bicycle. However, it did provide a framework for the buildings in town and also a place for the ducks to bathe in the AM. We were so tired from our excursions at night, we did not venture out to the pubs following dinner. Instead, we were content to settle into the Poet's Corner at the Old Ground Hotel for a pint or two.
Trip to Galway, July 8
Our first full day bus trip was to Galway on Tuesday. It is the sixth largest city in the Republic of Ireland next to Dublin. Our guide in Galway was Fiona and she did a wonderful job of showing us around the city in the morning. She was quite knowledgable and quite interesting about the history of Galway and the origin of the older buildings in the city. When I visit Catholic Churches on these trips, I try to light a candle for my late wife Terry. Note the Street singers. These were just a few of the troubadours we saw while walking the streets of Galway. We then had some time to wander on our own and I walked along the river with Ann, Sally, and Jim. My memory has failed me as to what we did for lunch, but whatever it was, we made it back to the bus for the designated departure. We saw some beautiful scenery along Galway Bay on our way back to Ennis.
Our first full day bus trip was to Galway on Tuesday. It is the sixth largest city in the Republic of Ireland next to Dublin. Our guide in Galway was Fiona and she did a wonderful job of showing us around the city in the morning. She was quite knowledgable and quite interesting about the history of Galway and the origin of the older buildings in the city. When I visit Catholic Churches on these trips, I try to light a candle for my late wife Terry. Note the Street singers. These were just a few of the troubadours we saw while walking the streets of Galway. We then had some time to wander on our own and I walked along the river with Ann, Sally, and Jim. My memory has failed me as to what we did for lunch, but whatever it was, we made it back to the bus for the designated departure. We saw some beautiful scenery along Galway Bay on our way back to Ennis.
The Burren and the Cliffs of Moher (I think I saw them), July 9
This particular day was a mixed blessing. It was quite clear on the stark landscape of the Burren, which according to Wikipedia means "Great Rock. Our Guide, Tony Kirby, was filled with great information about the flora and fauna on the Burren and had many great stories to tell. This is a rather stark landscape, which has a kind of subtle beauty with its simplified forms created over the centuries of lime rock erosion. Intermingled in the various shapes are hearty little wildflowers that find a place to grow and prosper. There are ancient burial sites marked with "Stonehenge" like structures.
Tony, I believe, is a transplanted Australian who came to this land a number of years ago and never left. He is not a trained naturalist, but has great knowledge about the ecology of the Burren. He is a writer who publishes works about the different attractions in this part of Ireland. I purchased his book on the Aran islands, a planned stop on the next day of this tour. It was relatively clear when we walked the Burren, with only a few drops of rain to dampen the visit. The bottom line is that we saw and experienced the Burren in all of its stark simplicity. The same could not be said for the Cliffs of Moher. My photos will tell the story or perhaps not. I think I saw the Cliffs of Moher in the rainy, foggy, mist that hindered our view. Everyone wanted to see the Puffins, the rare birds which supposedly inhabit the cliffs. Could not and did not happen. Later on in my trip, I have a nice surprise for you; but it will have to wait. Look at the photos below and enjoy to the best you can the contrast in the landscapes of these areas south of Galway Bay.
This particular day was a mixed blessing. It was quite clear on the stark landscape of the Burren, which according to Wikipedia means "Great Rock. Our Guide, Tony Kirby, was filled with great information about the flora and fauna on the Burren and had many great stories to tell. This is a rather stark landscape, which has a kind of subtle beauty with its simplified forms created over the centuries of lime rock erosion. Intermingled in the various shapes are hearty little wildflowers that find a place to grow and prosper. There are ancient burial sites marked with "Stonehenge" like structures.
Tony, I believe, is a transplanted Australian who came to this land a number of years ago and never left. He is not a trained naturalist, but has great knowledge about the ecology of the Burren. He is a writer who publishes works about the different attractions in this part of Ireland. I purchased his book on the Aran islands, a planned stop on the next day of this tour. It was relatively clear when we walked the Burren, with only a few drops of rain to dampen the visit. The bottom line is that we saw and experienced the Burren in all of its stark simplicity. The same could not be said for the Cliffs of Moher. My photos will tell the story or perhaps not. I think I saw the Cliffs of Moher in the rainy, foggy, mist that hindered our view. Everyone wanted to see the Puffins, the rare birds which supposedly inhabit the cliffs. Could not and did not happen. Later on in my trip, I have a nice surprise for you; but it will have to wait. Look at the photos below and enjoy to the best you can the contrast in the landscapes of these areas south of Galway Bay.
A Visit to the Aran Islands (Inishmore), July 10
This was the highlight for me on this first third of our trip through the Republic of Ireland. The weather served us a little better than our day on the Burren and at the Cliffs of Moher. At least, we could see something, and the scenery was a little more dramatic and not quite as stark as the Burren. It is important to note that the Aran Islands are a continuation of the Burren, and you can find very similar landscapes that reminded this traveler of the previous day's visits. We took a ferry from Galway to Inishmore and landed in a quaint little harbor village that contained outlets for the famous Aran wool sweaters. We ate lunch in a restaurant that had hostel in its title. We climbed the steps of the ancient ruins of the Fort at Dun Aengus. I was highly impressed and motivated by the people on our tour who were physically challenged to climb the stairs, but accepted the challenge and made their way to the top. The climb reminded me of the Great Wall of China because of the rocky terrain and the uneven rocky steps. As you will see the climb was worth it. The unseen scenes of yesterday where replicated to a degree on this day.
This was the highlight for me on this first third of our trip through the Republic of Ireland. The weather served us a little better than our day on the Burren and at the Cliffs of Moher. At least, we could see something, and the scenery was a little more dramatic and not quite as stark as the Burren. It is important to note that the Aran Islands are a continuation of the Burren, and you can find very similar landscapes that reminded this traveler of the previous day's visits. We took a ferry from Galway to Inishmore and landed in a quaint little harbor village that contained outlets for the famous Aran wool sweaters. We ate lunch in a restaurant that had hostel in its title. We climbed the steps of the ancient ruins of the Fort at Dun Aengus. I was highly impressed and motivated by the people on our tour who were physically challenged to climb the stairs, but accepted the challenge and made their way to the top. The climb reminded me of the Great Wall of China because of the rocky terrain and the uneven rocky steps. As you will see the climb was worth it. The unseen scenes of yesterday where replicated to a degree on this day.
From Ennis to Kilarney, July11
This was a day long trip beginning with crossing the Shannon River on a ferry and then proceeding on to Tralee and an unplanned stop at the beautiful Rose Garden on the Green in the center of Tralee. There is an annual Festival in Tralee each year where they crown some beautiful Irish lass the Rose of Tralee for that year. I have shared a number of photos from the garden on this site because I have rarely seen a rose garden with such beauty. I have been to the Botanical Gardens in the Bronx and a similar garden in Madison, Wisconsin. This garden was a special treat and one worth sharing.
After this deluge of color we proceeded on to the Blasket Center on the Dingle Peninsula where we learned about the people who used to live on these islands off the of western Ireland near County Kerry. The mist was heavy and the fog was dense when we arrived at the Center for lunch, but there were a few views I shot with my trusty Canon that I can share below. After lunch we stopped in Dingle on the Dingle Peninsula for a nice walk and some exploration. I visited a linen shop where I bought my daughter Gina two silk scarves made in Ireland. I was told by a friend to look up Fran Ryan while there who also ran a linen shop, but I could not find her and was told she was no longer in business in Dingle. My friend sees her at the Big E in Massachusetts in the fall. Perhaps she will discover the mystery of Fran Ryan's escape from Dingle. We arrived in Kilarney in late afternoon and checked into the old and elegant Malton Hotel right in the center of the city. Kilarney is an active place, filled with young people and lots of interesting things to do for the young. For the older crowd, however, it was more advantageous to just hang out at the Pub. I liked Kilarney and would want to visit there again.
This was a day long trip beginning with crossing the Shannon River on a ferry and then proceeding on to Tralee and an unplanned stop at the beautiful Rose Garden on the Green in the center of Tralee. There is an annual Festival in Tralee each year where they crown some beautiful Irish lass the Rose of Tralee for that year. I have shared a number of photos from the garden on this site because I have rarely seen a rose garden with such beauty. I have been to the Botanical Gardens in the Bronx and a similar garden in Madison, Wisconsin. This garden was a special treat and one worth sharing.
After this deluge of color we proceeded on to the Blasket Center on the Dingle Peninsula where we learned about the people who used to live on these islands off the of western Ireland near County Kerry. The mist was heavy and the fog was dense when we arrived at the Center for lunch, but there were a few views I shot with my trusty Canon that I can share below. After lunch we stopped in Dingle on the Dingle Peninsula for a nice walk and some exploration. I visited a linen shop where I bought my daughter Gina two silk scarves made in Ireland. I was told by a friend to look up Fran Ryan while there who also ran a linen shop, but I could not find her and was told she was no longer in business in Dingle. My friend sees her at the Big E in Massachusetts in the fall. Perhaps she will discover the mystery of Fran Ryan's escape from Dingle. We arrived in Kilarney in late afternoon and checked into the old and elegant Malton Hotel right in the center of the city. Kilarney is an active place, filled with young people and lots of interesting things to do for the young. For the older crowd, however, it was more advantageous to just hang out at the Pub. I liked Kilarney and would want to visit there again.
Killarney and the Ring of Kerry, July 12
The Malton Hotel is a very old Hotel with a modern addition. I was in the original part. I had to open the window for cool air to enter the room. It was always in the mid fifties at night, so air conditioning was not necessary. I had to get use to the idea that in Europe the screen window apparently has not been invented, because none of the windows in Ireland or Scotland had screens to protect against bugs and bats. Interestingly enough, I left my window open almost every night and never had any visitors of note. Having survived a bat in my room at Cape Cod last summer, I had some concern for the situation. Whatever they are doing in the British Isles to fend off vermin, I salute them. I liked the Malton Hotel. It had a wonderful Pub and a very pleasant Wine Restaurant where Ann, Sally, Jim and I ate on the second night of our stay. It also had a pleasant garden where you could walk and reflect whenever you wished. It was obviously a choice for many a bride and groom to have their wedding. They had beautiful banquet rooms and an indoor pool that I did not use.
Killarney, itself, is a welcoming city. It was easy to walk to where the action was in the town center. There was an amusement park in operation and also a circus while we were there. I was struck by the number of young adults who were everywhere as you walked the streets. Sally and I went to Church on Saturday night at the Franciscan Parish across the street from the Malton. It was a nice, relatively quick service, in a beautiful old, ornate church that obviously had lots of history behind it.
On the Saturday of our stay in Killarney we traveled to the Ring of Kerry, famous for its beautiful scenery. It was a foggy day and we did not begin to see beautiful landscapes. It was a very long bus ride without much reward in the morning and early afternoon. I did find a relatively famous golf course in the misty fog when we stopped for lunch and added a few photos. The annoying fog lifted a bit as we completed the Ring and came closer to Killarney. Our final stop of the day was at the Muckross Mansion and Park resting snuggly amongst the beautiful Killarney lakes. Opportunities for decent photos increased significantly. As I indicated earlier in this travelogue, I chose not to tour the museum in lieu of a much needed walk around the beautiful grounds. I was not disappointed.
The Malton Hotel is a very old Hotel with a modern addition. I was in the original part. I had to open the window for cool air to enter the room. It was always in the mid fifties at night, so air conditioning was not necessary. I had to get use to the idea that in Europe the screen window apparently has not been invented, because none of the windows in Ireland or Scotland had screens to protect against bugs and bats. Interestingly enough, I left my window open almost every night and never had any visitors of note. Having survived a bat in my room at Cape Cod last summer, I had some concern for the situation. Whatever they are doing in the British Isles to fend off vermin, I salute them. I liked the Malton Hotel. It had a wonderful Pub and a very pleasant Wine Restaurant where Ann, Sally, Jim and I ate on the second night of our stay. It also had a pleasant garden where you could walk and reflect whenever you wished. It was obviously a choice for many a bride and groom to have their wedding. They had beautiful banquet rooms and an indoor pool that I did not use.
Killarney, itself, is a welcoming city. It was easy to walk to where the action was in the town center. There was an amusement park in operation and also a circus while we were there. I was struck by the number of young adults who were everywhere as you walked the streets. Sally and I went to Church on Saturday night at the Franciscan Parish across the street from the Malton. It was a nice, relatively quick service, in a beautiful old, ornate church that obviously had lots of history behind it.
On the Saturday of our stay in Killarney we traveled to the Ring of Kerry, famous for its beautiful scenery. It was a foggy day and we did not begin to see beautiful landscapes. It was a very long bus ride without much reward in the morning and early afternoon. I did find a relatively famous golf course in the misty fog when we stopped for lunch and added a few photos. The annoying fog lifted a bit as we completed the Ring and came closer to Killarney. Our final stop of the day was at the Muckross Mansion and Park resting snuggly amongst the beautiful Killarney lakes. Opportunities for decent photos increased significantly. As I indicated earlier in this travelogue, I chose not to tour the museum in lieu of a much needed walk around the beautiful grounds. I was not disappointed.
From Killarney to Dublin, July 13
Sunday was another long day on the bus. We made our way from Kilarney to Dublin with stops at the Blarney Stone, the Longueville House for lunch, a short stop at the Rock of Cashel in County Tipparary and a final arrival at the Westbury Hotel in Dublin in the late afternoon. I bought a beautiful Blarney Woolen Mills Sweater for Gina's expected baby in December. You are probably wondering why do such a touristy thing like kiss the Blarney Stone? I did too, but I guess when you are there, you just have to do it. Besides, the same people who climbed the rough rocky stairs at Dun Aengus also took on the challenge of the 45 minute wait to climb the 120 winding stairs in a claustophobically enclosed tower to get there. I could not be the wimp. There is a photo of me kissing the Blarney stone, but you cannot tell it is me. You will just have to trust that it is; or ask my friend Jim, if he actually shot the photo. This was followed by a wonderful lunch at the Longueville House overlooking the Blackwater Valley. The ambiance was terrific, the food quite good, and the gardens and grounds about average in comparison with some of the other places we visited on our journey. We stopped at the Rock Cashel complex of buildings for a quick photo in County Tipparary (See Wikipedia on Rock Cashel), our Guide Mary's home county. Our long trip ended at the Westbury Hotel in Dublin.
Sunday was another long day on the bus. We made our way from Kilarney to Dublin with stops at the Blarney Stone, the Longueville House for lunch, a short stop at the Rock of Cashel in County Tipparary and a final arrival at the Westbury Hotel in Dublin in the late afternoon. I bought a beautiful Blarney Woolen Mills Sweater for Gina's expected baby in December. You are probably wondering why do such a touristy thing like kiss the Blarney Stone? I did too, but I guess when you are there, you just have to do it. Besides, the same people who climbed the rough rocky stairs at Dun Aengus also took on the challenge of the 45 minute wait to climb the 120 winding stairs in a claustophobically enclosed tower to get there. I could not be the wimp. There is a photo of me kissing the Blarney stone, but you cannot tell it is me. You will just have to trust that it is; or ask my friend Jim, if he actually shot the photo. This was followed by a wonderful lunch at the Longueville House overlooking the Blackwater Valley. The ambiance was terrific, the food quite good, and the gardens and grounds about average in comparison with some of the other places we visited on our journey. We stopped at the Rock Cashel complex of buildings for a quick photo in County Tipparary (See Wikipedia on Rock Cashel), our Guide Mary's home county. Our long trip ended at the Westbury Hotel in Dublin.
The City of Dublin, July 14
Dublin, for me, was the transition between my experience touring the Republic of Ireland and my soliditary trip to Enniskillen after my tour companions departed for the U.S. on July 16. It was welcome respite from the hectic traveling and bus riding we had been doing the first two thirds of the trip. We stayed in the elegant Westbury Hotel in the heart of Dublin. We were walking minutes from major shopping areas, St. Stephen's Park, and of course numerous pubs. It was fun to wander out of the hotel on our own to explore the streets of Dublin. Many of my photos are from those unguided walks. We had an interesting guide presentation about the architecture of Trinity College. Although, I saw the Book of Kells on display at Trinity, it was quite crowded; and of course, you could not take photos in the display room. Famous artifacts are often hampered by too many tourists unwilling to let others get a closer look (not talking about our tour group). I wish I had more patience in those crowded situations; but alas, I do not. In any event, I liked the feel of Dublin. It was an easy city to walk, shop, and enjoy a pint or two at the welcoming pubs. There were many street singers to provide ambiance to the beautiful streets, sometimes reserved for walkers only.
Dublin, for me, was the transition between my experience touring the Republic of Ireland and my soliditary trip to Enniskillen after my tour companions departed for the U.S. on July 16. It was welcome respite from the hectic traveling and bus riding we had been doing the first two thirds of the trip. We stayed in the elegant Westbury Hotel in the heart of Dublin. We were walking minutes from major shopping areas, St. Stephen's Park, and of course numerous pubs. It was fun to wander out of the hotel on our own to explore the streets of Dublin. Many of my photos are from those unguided walks. We had an interesting guide presentation about the architecture of Trinity College. Although, I saw the Book of Kells on display at Trinity, it was quite crowded; and of course, you could not take photos in the display room. Famous artifacts are often hampered by too many tourists unwilling to let others get a closer look (not talking about our tour group). I wish I had more patience in those crowded situations; but alas, I do not. In any event, I liked the feel of Dublin. It was an easy city to walk, shop, and enjoy a pint or two at the welcoming pubs. There were many street singers to provide ambiance to the beautiful streets, sometimes reserved for walkers only.
A Side Trip to Howth, July 15
After a morning visit with Jim, Sally, and Ann at the Dublin Art Museum, I decided to leave them and go off on my own venture to the Bay Area north of Dublin. My means of transportation was the Tram, and efficient and enjoyable ride. A very nice resident of Howth named Paul was sitting across from me on the tram and gave me a nice summary of what to look for in Howth, the end of the line for the Tram. Howth struck me as a pleasant small fishing and pleasure boat town situated in a beautiful bay area. It did have its share of tourists and I am sure that in addition to the fishing boats leaving and entering the harbor on a regular basis, it welcomed the commerce that resulted from the tourist traffic on these summer days north of Dublin. As my photos will attest, I walked the pier area, but also wandered a bit through the town and the up the hills that rise quickly from the bay. You will get a sense of the buildings, the homes, and yes, the pubs. I met three lovely ladies from Canada at the top of the hill overlooking the ruins of an old church, both an ancient and modern cemetery, and the beautiful bay and harbor below. This serendipitous decision to ride the tram out to Howth proved to be time well spent.
After a morning visit with Jim, Sally, and Ann at the Dublin Art Museum, I decided to leave them and go off on my own venture to the Bay Area north of Dublin. My means of transportation was the Tram, and efficient and enjoyable ride. A very nice resident of Howth named Paul was sitting across from me on the tram and gave me a nice summary of what to look for in Howth, the end of the line for the Tram. Howth struck me as a pleasant small fishing and pleasure boat town situated in a beautiful bay area. It did have its share of tourists and I am sure that in addition to the fishing boats leaving and entering the harbor on a regular basis, it welcomed the commerce that resulted from the tourist traffic on these summer days north of Dublin. As my photos will attest, I walked the pier area, but also wandered a bit through the town and the up the hills that rise quickly from the bay. You will get a sense of the buildings, the homes, and yes, the pubs. I met three lovely ladies from Canada at the top of the hill overlooking the ruins of an old church, both an ancient and modern cemetery, and the beautiful bay and harbor below. This serendipitous decision to ride the tram out to Howth proved to be time well spent.
Phase II: Enniskillen, Fermanagh County, Northern Ireland, July 16-18
Onward to Enniskillen
As I have said elsewhere, the purpose of this leg of my trip was to explore the countryside of my ancestor, Bernard Brady. Just a word about my great, great, grandfather. There is a some minor discrepancy about the year of birth, but he was born in on May 10 in 1830. His father, also named Bernard, was a farmer in Fermanagh County, and his son did the same until he left for America at the end of the Great Potato Famine in 1851. The second Bernard traveled down the St. Lawrence Seaway and settled southwest of Chicago near Ottawa, Il. After working several years as a farm laborer, he purchased land in the 1860s and began to develop a farm that eventually grew to 740 acres, valued at $40,000. He married Julia Stack in 1855, an immigrant from County Kerry. They had nine children, five of whom survived to adulthood. The four eldest children died in 1860 of some unknown cause. My friends Gary and Andrea Knox did a little research and found that there was a worldwide epidemic of influenza in 1859. The epidemic could have been the cause of the death of the four young children. My Great Grandfather, Edward Brady (1861-1951) was the oldest of the surviving five children. I was eight years old when Great Grandpa Brady passed away. I remember him quite clearly from our visits to see him in Chicago. I believe that he also made it to Madison, but my memory is shaky on that point. I do remember sitting by his side and listening to him play the violin, which he did quite well. My Grandma Ruth, born of Edward and his wife Delia Mooney was a wonderful, caring woman who made the best oat meal ever when I was just a toddler in Madison. She was a true homemaker and we grandchildren benefitted from her abundant love in so many ways. The research to support this narrative is thanks to my cousin Brady Kunz who has been the family genealogist for both the Kunz and Brady side of my mom's family. A second thanks goes to my cousin, Paula Kunz Spangler, who passed this information on to me.
I did not expect to find a whole lot more about my great, great grandfather on my visit to Fermanagh County and the city of Enniskillen, but I decided it would be enough simply to drive the rolling countryside populated with sheep and cattle and have a pint or two in the beautiful little town between two lakes known as Upper Lough Erne and Lower Lough Erne. I stayed in a quaint guest house known as Corrigan's (about 7 miles south of Enniskillen) and situated on the banks of the navigable River Erne that joins the two very large lakes in the county. A second benefit of this side trip to Enniskillen was the wonderfully relaxing change of pace after the hectic schedule we kept on the tour of the Republic of Ireland. Walking the narrow road that led to the guest house from the main highway was quiet and serene and populated with various farm animals grazing the countryside. Sitting on the steps in the front of Corrigan's, which faced the river, was quite contemplative. The solitude was broken from time to time as impressive pleasure boats navigated the long and winding connector between the two lakes. On the afternoon of my arrival, I saw two fisherman across the river enjoying the same solitude as I. Later, in the early evening, there were tourists swimming off the boat moored at the slip across the river from Corrigan's. You will see a photo of the early morning shades of color as the sun rose in the east. Catherine, the proprietor of Corrigan's, was a warm and friendly soul giving me great advice on how to navigate the streets of Enniskillen, find the right pubs for a pint and a bit to eat, and where to get my laundry done, which at this point was becoming a gross necessity. Her breakfasts were to die for and the room that I had overlooking the river was just splendid. I would return for a stay at Corrigan's in a heartbeat.
In addition to my adventure of branching off on my own in search of my past, I rented a car at the Dublin Airport and drove it with great caution to Enniskillen, about 100 km. from Dublin. Ireland's idea of an automatic transmission and mine did not quite match, so I eventually upgraded to a VW Golf with a "real" automatic transmission. I did not want the added burden of shifting with my left hand. This decision was a wise one. The roads out of Dublin for about 25 km. are similar to our Interstates, so getting use to driving on the left was not a big problem. Even the roundabouts did not cause me great grief, because I had watched a number of YouTube videos that demonstrated how to navigate these frequent traffic managers for integrating the traffic flow from right to left. Roundabouts are somewhat common in Massachusetts and on Cape Cod. In Ireland, however, you just have to look in the opposite direction to enter one. After the first 25 km, you hit the "primary"highways that are similar to our state highways in the U.S., but without the generous shoulders that give a driver a sense of space. These roads were manageable; and, with concentration, easy to navigate. It was the tiny two lane roads that seemed like one way roads, and the one path roads, that seemed like bike trails that caused the most concern for me. I drove north from Dublin for about 20 km. and then west to get to Enniskillen. Some of the roads on this initial trip were very narrow and I started to get use to pulling off to the side to let an oncoming car pass by. I found drivers courteous and very willing to share the stopping and moving to the side strategy. I do remember one incident driving out of Corrigans for the 2 km. trip to the primary highway where I met a garbage truck. Needless to say, I backed up to a nearby driveway (Thank you God), because that old truck just kept on coming. I never did drive in a city like Dublin, which was a wise decision on my part. However, I did have to navigate the narrow streets of Enniskillen. I quickly learned where the free parking lots were and often just parked the car and walked the town. It was good exercise, even in the rain. The afternoon I had my laundry done presented a typical challenge in town driving. I was driving on the left (mostly), looking for the cleaners. I found cars half parked on the sidewalk and half parked on the street. If there was an oncoming car, then I was presented with the dilemma of whether or not I could squeeze through the narrow opening. It was not fun. The bottom line was that driving the car on the left was hard work because of the 100% concentration you had to bring to the challenge. I survived my three days driving on the roads of Ireland north and west of Dublin, but I was quite glad when I returned the VW Golf to Enterprise at the Airport on Friday. My Irish golfing buddy in the U.S, Bill, told me not to drive, but to rent a driver. I did not take his advice. The "adventurer" in me wanted the experience of driving on the left. I accomplished that goal, but I was glad when the experience came to an end.
On Thursday morning, I decided to take a boat trip on the Lower Lough Erne. It was a beautiful day, one of the best on the entire trip; and I saw the countryside from the view of the lake. The trip included a stop at the Devenish Monastic Site on an island in the middle of the lake. As I started to review my photos for publishing on this site, I realized that I took very few shots of Enniskillen proper. You will get a sense of it from some of the photos I took from the boat, but I am disappointed that I did not take more photos of Main street Enniskillen with its churches, pubs, restaurants, and numerous small shopping venues. I did capture one photo of a street singer in Enniskillen. He was singing his Irish melodies in a small plaza where shoppers could stop and rest. Hopefully my photos do justice to the beauty of the countryside and the monastery on my 90 minute boat trip. Enniskillen, like Killarney, is a place I could visit again. It is a place to stop, rest, and enjoy.
Let me say a few more words about the search for my past. I visited with a very nice woman, Robena Elliot, in the Enniskillen library who guided me to the Griffiths Valuation Document compiled in 1864. It was an effort to identify all of the people in Northern Ireland who worked the land and identify the "town land" they were from. She ran a copy of the "Brady" pages for me. There were two Bernard Bradys on this list from Fermanagh County. One was in the town land in the southern part of the county known as Aghalurcher. the other was in Enniskillen. I visited the town hall in Enniskillen; but Frank Roofe, the local genealogist, was on vacation and no one else could give me much help for the Bernard Brady in Enniskillen. However, my friend at the library gave me a wonderful copy of the county map and showed me where an old church and cemetery were located in Aghalurcher, listed as the location for the second Bernard Brady on the list. I visited that cemetery; and although I did not find a gravestone for Brady, I did take a lot of photos. Many of the gravestones were unreadable; but to my surprise, it was still a working cemetery and had many recently erected stone monuments. I know this is probably a bit overly sentimental, but I did feel that I was walking on the lands of my great, great grandfather. At the very least, there was a spiritual connection. Thanks to Apple Maps, I was able to get a satellite view of the cemetery. See the satellite picture below.
As I have said elsewhere, the purpose of this leg of my trip was to explore the countryside of my ancestor, Bernard Brady. Just a word about my great, great, grandfather. There is a some minor discrepancy about the year of birth, but he was born in on May 10 in 1830. His father, also named Bernard, was a farmer in Fermanagh County, and his son did the same until he left for America at the end of the Great Potato Famine in 1851. The second Bernard traveled down the St. Lawrence Seaway and settled southwest of Chicago near Ottawa, Il. After working several years as a farm laborer, he purchased land in the 1860s and began to develop a farm that eventually grew to 740 acres, valued at $40,000. He married Julia Stack in 1855, an immigrant from County Kerry. They had nine children, five of whom survived to adulthood. The four eldest children died in 1860 of some unknown cause. My friends Gary and Andrea Knox did a little research and found that there was a worldwide epidemic of influenza in 1859. The epidemic could have been the cause of the death of the four young children. My Great Grandfather, Edward Brady (1861-1951) was the oldest of the surviving five children. I was eight years old when Great Grandpa Brady passed away. I remember him quite clearly from our visits to see him in Chicago. I believe that he also made it to Madison, but my memory is shaky on that point. I do remember sitting by his side and listening to him play the violin, which he did quite well. My Grandma Ruth, born of Edward and his wife Delia Mooney was a wonderful, caring woman who made the best oat meal ever when I was just a toddler in Madison. She was a true homemaker and we grandchildren benefitted from her abundant love in so many ways. The research to support this narrative is thanks to my cousin Brady Kunz who has been the family genealogist for both the Kunz and Brady side of my mom's family. A second thanks goes to my cousin, Paula Kunz Spangler, who passed this information on to me.
I did not expect to find a whole lot more about my great, great grandfather on my visit to Fermanagh County and the city of Enniskillen, but I decided it would be enough simply to drive the rolling countryside populated with sheep and cattle and have a pint or two in the beautiful little town between two lakes known as Upper Lough Erne and Lower Lough Erne. I stayed in a quaint guest house known as Corrigan's (about 7 miles south of Enniskillen) and situated on the banks of the navigable River Erne that joins the two very large lakes in the county. A second benefit of this side trip to Enniskillen was the wonderfully relaxing change of pace after the hectic schedule we kept on the tour of the Republic of Ireland. Walking the narrow road that led to the guest house from the main highway was quiet and serene and populated with various farm animals grazing the countryside. Sitting on the steps in the front of Corrigan's, which faced the river, was quite contemplative. The solitude was broken from time to time as impressive pleasure boats navigated the long and winding connector between the two lakes. On the afternoon of my arrival, I saw two fisherman across the river enjoying the same solitude as I. Later, in the early evening, there were tourists swimming off the boat moored at the slip across the river from Corrigan's. You will see a photo of the early morning shades of color as the sun rose in the east. Catherine, the proprietor of Corrigan's, was a warm and friendly soul giving me great advice on how to navigate the streets of Enniskillen, find the right pubs for a pint and a bit to eat, and where to get my laundry done, which at this point was becoming a gross necessity. Her breakfasts were to die for and the room that I had overlooking the river was just splendid. I would return for a stay at Corrigan's in a heartbeat.
In addition to my adventure of branching off on my own in search of my past, I rented a car at the Dublin Airport and drove it with great caution to Enniskillen, about 100 km. from Dublin. Ireland's idea of an automatic transmission and mine did not quite match, so I eventually upgraded to a VW Golf with a "real" automatic transmission. I did not want the added burden of shifting with my left hand. This decision was a wise one. The roads out of Dublin for about 25 km. are similar to our Interstates, so getting use to driving on the left was not a big problem. Even the roundabouts did not cause me great grief, because I had watched a number of YouTube videos that demonstrated how to navigate these frequent traffic managers for integrating the traffic flow from right to left. Roundabouts are somewhat common in Massachusetts and on Cape Cod. In Ireland, however, you just have to look in the opposite direction to enter one. After the first 25 km, you hit the "primary"highways that are similar to our state highways in the U.S., but without the generous shoulders that give a driver a sense of space. These roads were manageable; and, with concentration, easy to navigate. It was the tiny two lane roads that seemed like one way roads, and the one path roads, that seemed like bike trails that caused the most concern for me. I drove north from Dublin for about 20 km. and then west to get to Enniskillen. Some of the roads on this initial trip were very narrow and I started to get use to pulling off to the side to let an oncoming car pass by. I found drivers courteous and very willing to share the stopping and moving to the side strategy. I do remember one incident driving out of Corrigans for the 2 km. trip to the primary highway where I met a garbage truck. Needless to say, I backed up to a nearby driveway (Thank you God), because that old truck just kept on coming. I never did drive in a city like Dublin, which was a wise decision on my part. However, I did have to navigate the narrow streets of Enniskillen. I quickly learned where the free parking lots were and often just parked the car and walked the town. It was good exercise, even in the rain. The afternoon I had my laundry done presented a typical challenge in town driving. I was driving on the left (mostly), looking for the cleaners. I found cars half parked on the sidewalk and half parked on the street. If there was an oncoming car, then I was presented with the dilemma of whether or not I could squeeze through the narrow opening. It was not fun. The bottom line was that driving the car on the left was hard work because of the 100% concentration you had to bring to the challenge. I survived my three days driving on the roads of Ireland north and west of Dublin, but I was quite glad when I returned the VW Golf to Enterprise at the Airport on Friday. My Irish golfing buddy in the U.S, Bill, told me not to drive, but to rent a driver. I did not take his advice. The "adventurer" in me wanted the experience of driving on the left. I accomplished that goal, but I was glad when the experience came to an end.
On Thursday morning, I decided to take a boat trip on the Lower Lough Erne. It was a beautiful day, one of the best on the entire trip; and I saw the countryside from the view of the lake. The trip included a stop at the Devenish Monastic Site on an island in the middle of the lake. As I started to review my photos for publishing on this site, I realized that I took very few shots of Enniskillen proper. You will get a sense of it from some of the photos I took from the boat, but I am disappointed that I did not take more photos of Main street Enniskillen with its churches, pubs, restaurants, and numerous small shopping venues. I did capture one photo of a street singer in Enniskillen. He was singing his Irish melodies in a small plaza where shoppers could stop and rest. Hopefully my photos do justice to the beauty of the countryside and the monastery on my 90 minute boat trip. Enniskillen, like Killarney, is a place I could visit again. It is a place to stop, rest, and enjoy.
Let me say a few more words about the search for my past. I visited with a very nice woman, Robena Elliot, in the Enniskillen library who guided me to the Griffiths Valuation Document compiled in 1864. It was an effort to identify all of the people in Northern Ireland who worked the land and identify the "town land" they were from. She ran a copy of the "Brady" pages for me. There were two Bernard Bradys on this list from Fermanagh County. One was in the town land in the southern part of the county known as Aghalurcher. the other was in Enniskillen. I visited the town hall in Enniskillen; but Frank Roofe, the local genealogist, was on vacation and no one else could give me much help for the Bernard Brady in Enniskillen. However, my friend at the library gave me a wonderful copy of the county map and showed me where an old church and cemetery were located in Aghalurcher, listed as the location for the second Bernard Brady on the list. I visited that cemetery; and although I did not find a gravestone for Brady, I did take a lot of photos. Many of the gravestones were unreadable; but to my surprise, it was still a working cemetery and had many recently erected stone monuments. I know this is probably a bit overly sentimental, but I did feel that I was walking on the lands of my great, great grandfather. At the very least, there was a spiritual connection. Thanks to Apple Maps, I was able to get a satellite view of the cemetery. See the satellite picture below.
Using the narrative for Enniskillen as a guide, I am going to present the photos in three separate divisions. The first set of photos will focus on Corrigan's Shore Guest House, the second on Enniskillen and my trip on the Upper Lough Erne, and the third on the old church and cemetery in Aghalurcher, where it is likely that members of the Brady family were buried..
On Friday, after a wonderful breakfast prepared by Catherine, I drove back to Dublin Airport and waited patiently for my flight to Edinburgh and Phase III of my trip to the Scottish Highlands.
Phase III: Edinburgh and the Scottish Highlands, July 18-23
Day 1: Edinburgh to Inverness
Day 2: Isle of Skye
Day 3: Applecross Peninsula (to the right of Skye)
Day 4: John O' Groats
Day 5: Black Isle (just a bit north of Inverness)
(Map: Courtesy of www.lonelyplanet.com)
Day 2: Isle of Skye
Day 3: Applecross Peninsula (to the right of Skye)
Day 4: John O' Groats
Day 5: Black Isle (just a bit north of Inverness)
(Map: Courtesy of www.lonelyplanet.com)
Introduction to Scotland
I arrived in downtown Edinburgh about 8:30 PM. The taxi drive to the Old Waverley Hotel located just across from the Train Station was enjoyable, though it cost about twenty pounds. The driver was a talkative one and gave me a brief summary of what to expect from Edinburgh. Unfortunately, my time in this fascinating city was limited. I entered the very narrow entrance of the hotel and called upstairs for help. There was no elevator on the entrance floor of the hotel. In less than a minute, my luggage was at the reception desk located up two flights of stairs. I found out that booking on line with Hotels.com gives you a discounted price, but not the breakfast and Internet that comes when you book directly with the hotel. However, the 3 pound for 12 hour Internet charge would serve my purpose; and I had no intention of eating breakfast in the hotel, because they did not start serving until after I planned to leave in the morning to catch my tour of the Scottish Highlands. I did take a rather tiny elevator to the 5th floor and entered my small, but adequate hotel room that overlooked the center of Edinburgh. The single bed was a bit of a shocker after the grand hotels I stayed at in Ireland and the B&B in Enniskillen. However, it turned out to be quite comfortable. Although the hotel was quite old, the bathroom had been modernized and was quite functional. My view out the window was pleasant, but I still found it intriguing that the there was no air conditioning and that the window had no screen to protect against bugs, bats, and birds. It was the usual cool evening outside (about 55 degrees). Opening the window slightly brought a cooling breeze into the room and the brisk air was sufficient for good sleeping. After a few minutes of getting use to the room, I took a walk, transversing about an eight square block area of the city. My first destination was to discover the location of the departure address for the Scottish tour. It was a short walk to High Street where I discovered the travel agency where I would meet the bus the next morning. My curiosity satisfied with that task, I went looking for something to eat. The buildings in Edinburgh are quite old, the pubs plentiful, and the streets quite safe and walkable. I found a restaurant pub on my walk and went in to get something to eat at about 9:15 PM. I sat at the bar believing I could order a pint and select something from the menu. The bartender, speaking in the heaviest Scottish brogue that I encountered anywhere on my Scottish trip finally communicated to me that I could only drink at the bar. So I had a pint, attempted to have a conversation with my friend behind the bar, and soon left. In the twenty minutes I spent at the bar, I never understood a word he said. He talked fast and formed his "English" words creating sounds that I could not decipher. After walking up and down Rose St. and checking out all of the restaurants and pubs, I am embarrassed to say that I ended up at McDonald's just around the corner from my hotel. It was late. I was hungry and my tour of the Scottish Highlands left at 7:45 AM.
One of my disappointments is that I had no time to explore this ancient city. I am also disappointed that I took so few photos on my short walks in the city. I spent this night of July 18th in the city; and I would return to the same hotel and the same room on July 23rd, but with only a few evening hours to explore. The most I saw of the city was when I chose to take the airport bus from downtown Edinburgh to catch my flight home on July 24th (four pounds as compared to twenty for a taxi). I doubt that I will make it back to Scotland; but if I did, I would spend two to three full days in this historic city. I include a view undramatic photos of the city below and a Map of the downtown area where I walked.
I arrived in downtown Edinburgh about 8:30 PM. The taxi drive to the Old Waverley Hotel located just across from the Train Station was enjoyable, though it cost about twenty pounds. The driver was a talkative one and gave me a brief summary of what to expect from Edinburgh. Unfortunately, my time in this fascinating city was limited. I entered the very narrow entrance of the hotel and called upstairs for help. There was no elevator on the entrance floor of the hotel. In less than a minute, my luggage was at the reception desk located up two flights of stairs. I found out that booking on line with Hotels.com gives you a discounted price, but not the breakfast and Internet that comes when you book directly with the hotel. However, the 3 pound for 12 hour Internet charge would serve my purpose; and I had no intention of eating breakfast in the hotel, because they did not start serving until after I planned to leave in the morning to catch my tour of the Scottish Highlands. I did take a rather tiny elevator to the 5th floor and entered my small, but adequate hotel room that overlooked the center of Edinburgh. The single bed was a bit of a shocker after the grand hotels I stayed at in Ireland and the B&B in Enniskillen. However, it turned out to be quite comfortable. Although the hotel was quite old, the bathroom had been modernized and was quite functional. My view out the window was pleasant, but I still found it intriguing that the there was no air conditioning and that the window had no screen to protect against bugs, bats, and birds. It was the usual cool evening outside (about 55 degrees). Opening the window slightly brought a cooling breeze into the room and the brisk air was sufficient for good sleeping. After a few minutes of getting use to the room, I took a walk, transversing about an eight square block area of the city. My first destination was to discover the location of the departure address for the Scottish tour. It was a short walk to High Street where I discovered the travel agency where I would meet the bus the next morning. My curiosity satisfied with that task, I went looking for something to eat. The buildings in Edinburgh are quite old, the pubs plentiful, and the streets quite safe and walkable. I found a restaurant pub on my walk and went in to get something to eat at about 9:15 PM. I sat at the bar believing I could order a pint and select something from the menu. The bartender, speaking in the heaviest Scottish brogue that I encountered anywhere on my Scottish trip finally communicated to me that I could only drink at the bar. So I had a pint, attempted to have a conversation with my friend behind the bar, and soon left. In the twenty minutes I spent at the bar, I never understood a word he said. He talked fast and formed his "English" words creating sounds that I could not decipher. After walking up and down Rose St. and checking out all of the restaurants and pubs, I am embarrassed to say that I ended up at McDonald's just around the corner from my hotel. It was late. I was hungry and my tour of the Scottish Highlands left at 7:45 AM.
One of my disappointments is that I had no time to explore this ancient city. I am also disappointed that I took so few photos on my short walks in the city. I spent this night of July 18th in the city; and I would return to the same hotel and the same room on July 23rd, but with only a few evening hours to explore. The most I saw of the city was when I chose to take the airport bus from downtown Edinburgh to catch my flight home on July 24th (four pounds as compared to twenty for a taxi). I doubt that I will make it back to Scotland; but if I did, I would spend two to three full days in this historic city. I include a view undramatic photos of the city below and a Map of the downtown area where I walked.
Downtown Edinburgh with Key Spots Circled
Edinburgh to Inverness: Glen Coe and a Misty Look at Loch Ness
The next morning at about 7:45 AM, I started walking to High Street to catch the Bus Tour. There were no stores open as I walked the bridge that spans the railroad station and wandered up the hill to High Street. As I walked down High, I still wondered if this part of my trip was an online scam. To my relief, the travel agency at 87 High Street was open for business. The bus picked me up at 8:00 AM and we were on our way. It is worth saying a few words about how this travel company organizes its tours. Our bus was a big one carrying about 35 to 40 people. Most of the people on it were on a one day tour and would return on the same bus to Edinburgh in the evening. Five of us were on a five day tour and would switch buses at a boat harbor on Loch Ness and travel on to our B&B in Inverness. There were also three day travelers who could be scheduled on one of our day tours. Most of the people that I met on this trip I saw only one or two days of my five day tour. There were two couples from Saskatchewan, Canada who would be with me all five days. I tell you all this, because unlike my tour of the Republic of Ireland, I was never with the same group of people on any of the five days. I did not particularly like that aspect of the tour, but there was little I could do about it. This leg of my journey was a combination of traveling on my own and occasionally with others, with never enough time to make a real connection. My purpose was to see the Highlands of Scotland; and for the most part, I accomplished that goal. There is another problem that I also encountered on my Irish trip, but it was even worse on this trip. It was almost a waste of time to try and shoot scenic landscapes from the bus. I tried, but with little success. However, the bus driver/guides stopped enough times along the way for some dramatic photos. The photos below portray the bus ride from Edinburgh to Inverness. There was some impressive countryside shots, a beautiful trip through Glen Coe and a rather misty, rainy trip up the western coast of Loch Ness.
The weather was so bad at Loch Ness, that I decided not to tour the ruins of the Uruqhart Castle and take the boat trip on Lock Ness. Instead, I was able to get some good shots, while hanging out at the pub conveniently located across the street from Loch Ness. The tourists on our bus who took the boat ride had mixed feelings about the excursion. I was dry and comfortable with my glass of Scottish brew. I even had some time to load photos on my computer. Little did I know, that I would get another look at Loch Ness the next day, a much more satisfying one.
The next morning at about 7:45 AM, I started walking to High Street to catch the Bus Tour. There were no stores open as I walked the bridge that spans the railroad station and wandered up the hill to High Street. As I walked down High, I still wondered if this part of my trip was an online scam. To my relief, the travel agency at 87 High Street was open for business. The bus picked me up at 8:00 AM and we were on our way. It is worth saying a few words about how this travel company organizes its tours. Our bus was a big one carrying about 35 to 40 people. Most of the people on it were on a one day tour and would return on the same bus to Edinburgh in the evening. Five of us were on a five day tour and would switch buses at a boat harbor on Loch Ness and travel on to our B&B in Inverness. There were also three day travelers who could be scheduled on one of our day tours. Most of the people that I met on this trip I saw only one or two days of my five day tour. There were two couples from Saskatchewan, Canada who would be with me all five days. I tell you all this, because unlike my tour of the Republic of Ireland, I was never with the same group of people on any of the five days. I did not particularly like that aspect of the tour, but there was little I could do about it. This leg of my journey was a combination of traveling on my own and occasionally with others, with never enough time to make a real connection. My purpose was to see the Highlands of Scotland; and for the most part, I accomplished that goal. There is another problem that I also encountered on my Irish trip, but it was even worse on this trip. It was almost a waste of time to try and shoot scenic landscapes from the bus. I tried, but with little success. However, the bus driver/guides stopped enough times along the way for some dramatic photos. The photos below portray the bus ride from Edinburgh to Inverness. There was some impressive countryside shots, a beautiful trip through Glen Coe and a rather misty, rainy trip up the western coast of Loch Ness.
The weather was so bad at Loch Ness, that I decided not to tour the ruins of the Uruqhart Castle and take the boat trip on Lock Ness. Instead, I was able to get some good shots, while hanging out at the pub conveniently located across the street from Loch Ness. The tourists on our bus who took the boat ride had mixed feelings about the excursion. I was dry and comfortable with my glass of Scottish brew. I even had some time to load photos on my computer. Little did I know, that I would get another look at Loch Ness the next day, a much more satisfying one.
Inverness, July19-23
We changed buses just outside of Inverness, and about 15 of us journeyed forth to our B&Bs in the center of the town. I was the last to be dropped off thanks to the fact that the driver did not know where my B&B was located. He could have dropped me off 45 minutes earlier. I was not a happy camper. I was so anxious to get off the bus that I left my camera behind. My "friend," the bus driver, dropped it off to me at the B&B later in the evening. My anger changed to gratitude. There are good people in this world. My hosts at the Oakvilla Guest House were a terrific couple. Margo, the keeper of the B&B, served delicious breakfasts each of the four mornings I spent there. The room, designed for a single guest, was on the small side, but quite comfortable, clean, and well appointed. Alistair, her husband, greeted me on the first evening and gave me walking directions to the center of Inverness where I found a quaint Catholic Church where I attended Mass on this first evening in Inverness. The elderly priest who celebrated the Mass was a kind Scottish soul that gave a short, inspiring homily. After Mass, he engaged me in a brief conversation about where I was from and welcomed me to his fare city. It was a cool, misty Saturday evening, but I avoided getting wet. I wandered the downtown area for a bit, found a place to eat, and took a leisurely walk back to Oakvilla. The photos below were taken over the four days that I spent in Inverness. It is a harbor city that opens up to the North Sea, but is highly protected from the wrath of the sea by the Moray Firth. The Scottish describe a firth in a similar fashion as the fjords of Norway, or the bays of the U.S. You will get a sense of a city built on the river leading into Loch Ness. Inver means river. I also have included a few flower shots that I took on my frequent evening and early morning walks in Inverness.
We changed buses just outside of Inverness, and about 15 of us journeyed forth to our B&Bs in the center of the town. I was the last to be dropped off thanks to the fact that the driver did not know where my B&B was located. He could have dropped me off 45 minutes earlier. I was not a happy camper. I was so anxious to get off the bus that I left my camera behind. My "friend," the bus driver, dropped it off to me at the B&B later in the evening. My anger changed to gratitude. There are good people in this world. My hosts at the Oakvilla Guest House were a terrific couple. Margo, the keeper of the B&B, served delicious breakfasts each of the four mornings I spent there. The room, designed for a single guest, was on the small side, but quite comfortable, clean, and well appointed. Alistair, her husband, greeted me on the first evening and gave me walking directions to the center of Inverness where I found a quaint Catholic Church where I attended Mass on this first evening in Inverness. The elderly priest who celebrated the Mass was a kind Scottish soul that gave a short, inspiring homily. After Mass, he engaged me in a brief conversation about where I was from and welcomed me to his fare city. It was a cool, misty Saturday evening, but I avoided getting wet. I wandered the downtown area for a bit, found a place to eat, and took a leisurely walk back to Oakvilla. The photos below were taken over the four days that I spent in Inverness. It is a harbor city that opens up to the North Sea, but is highly protected from the wrath of the sea by the Moray Firth. The Scottish describe a firth in a similar fashion as the fjords of Norway, or the bays of the U.S. You will get a sense of a city built on the river leading into Loch Ness. Inver means river. I also have included a few flower shots that I took on my frequent evening and early morning walks in Inverness.
The Road to Skye: July 20, 2014
I was picked up last on my first morning in Inverness. I quickly found that being last caused some difficulty in finding a comfortable seat near the front of the vans that we had for our trips to Skye, Applecross, and John O' Groats. After a couple of days, I wised up and shamelessly used my age to get a seat closer to the front. My thanks go to the bus driver/guides and my friends from Saskatchewan for saving me more comfortable seats. This was a much nicer day than the day before and we took another pass at Loch Ness on our way to the Isle of Skye. Our guide, Alison, was a character who displayed her energetic personality and peppiness throughout the trip. Window shots were again difficult, particularly from the back of the van where I found myself for most of the ride. However, Alison stopped often along the way for photo opportunities. It was interesting to see the Eilean Donan Castle because it was a fully restored, ancient structure. The same family had owned it for several centuries and they still used it as a summer vacation spot. When we arrived at Skye, it was a bit misty; but it was a good trip. Alison even led us in a circle dance on the beach. It was the only time that I actually put my feet in the water during my entire trip to Ireland and Scotland. Alison was a guide of many colors. She had led groups on hikes on other continents and much more rigorous walking trips than ours in Scotland. Every once in awhile, she contracts with our Tour Company to lead a group of van based tourists on a comfortable tour of the highlands. It was our turn to get Alison. I liked her. Others found her a bit over the top; but, for me, she made the day extra fun. I was often frustrated by seeing beautiful scenes outside the bus, but unable to capture usable photos through the windows. However, I did get some acceptable shots of Loch Ness and the Isle of Skye.
I was picked up last on my first morning in Inverness. I quickly found that being last caused some difficulty in finding a comfortable seat near the front of the vans that we had for our trips to Skye, Applecross, and John O' Groats. After a couple of days, I wised up and shamelessly used my age to get a seat closer to the front. My thanks go to the bus driver/guides and my friends from Saskatchewan for saving me more comfortable seats. This was a much nicer day than the day before and we took another pass at Loch Ness on our way to the Isle of Skye. Our guide, Alison, was a character who displayed her energetic personality and peppiness throughout the trip. Window shots were again difficult, particularly from the back of the van where I found myself for most of the ride. However, Alison stopped often along the way for photo opportunities. It was interesting to see the Eilean Donan Castle because it was a fully restored, ancient structure. The same family had owned it for several centuries and they still used it as a summer vacation spot. When we arrived at Skye, it was a bit misty; but it was a good trip. Alison even led us in a circle dance on the beach. It was the only time that I actually put my feet in the water during my entire trip to Ireland and Scotland. Alison was a guide of many colors. She had led groups on hikes on other continents and much more rigorous walking trips than ours in Scotland. Every once in awhile, she contracts with our Tour Company to lead a group of van based tourists on a comfortable tour of the highlands. It was our turn to get Alison. I liked her. Others found her a bit over the top; but, for me, she made the day extra fun. I was often frustrated by seeing beautiful scenes outside the bus, but unable to capture usable photos through the windows. However, I did get some acceptable shots of Loch Ness and the Isle of Skye.
The Applecross Peninsula, July 21, 2014
Our van for this trip was much smaller than the vehicle we had for Skye. It held about 16 people and was completely full, except for one seat at the rear of the van. I was picked up last; and guess what, the seat in the back was mine. My negativity soon ceased as we spent the rest of the day transversing the Applecross Penisula. It was a beautiful sunny day, and the vistas were clear and dramatic for most of our trip. Before we climbed the narrow road to the summit of Bealack nam Ba, we stopped in a lovely little village located near Loch Carren. There was an opportunity for some interesting shots of landscapes, flowers, and a single butterfly born for posing. We climbed the narrow road looking back on increasingly dramatic views. We ran into other adventurers in different types of vehicles making their way up the mountain. I will let the photos describe the beauty of what we saw. We came down from the mountain to the village of Applecross and stopped at a great place for lunch with the opportunity to walk to a local church and cemetery after our lunch break. I walked a bit with Julia, an attorney from Moscow, who looked much younger than her 30 something years. Julia posed for a photo on the bridge during our walk. I use Julia as an example of the one time meetings I had with different people on this five day adventure. We would meet, talk a little, share taking photographs of each other, say goodbye with the knowledge that we would not meet again. My friend from New Delhi, India is just one more example. I sat next to her in the back of the bus and we would chat a little, be quiet a little, and take photos of each other at various locations. She was in our group for two days, but then did not go to John O' Groats the next day. Perhaps it is a strange way to run a tour; but with the flexible choices the Tour Company provides, there is no other way. My five day traveling buddies from Saskatchewan were the only tour members that I was able to connect with for an extended period. We had dinner together one evening in Inverness and had the advantage of talking about the quality of tours we had for each of the five days. Malcolm, was our guide for Applecross and John O' Groats. He provided a welcome consistency for the the two days we spent on smaller vans. He was an expert driver on narrow roads and a knowledgeable and interesting guide. All of this inconsistent social interaction did not get in the way of some of the most beautiful landscapes witnessed on my entire journey of Ireland and Scotland.
Our van for this trip was much smaller than the vehicle we had for Skye. It held about 16 people and was completely full, except for one seat at the rear of the van. I was picked up last; and guess what, the seat in the back was mine. My negativity soon ceased as we spent the rest of the day transversing the Applecross Penisula. It was a beautiful sunny day, and the vistas were clear and dramatic for most of our trip. Before we climbed the narrow road to the summit of Bealack nam Ba, we stopped in a lovely little village located near Loch Carren. There was an opportunity for some interesting shots of landscapes, flowers, and a single butterfly born for posing. We climbed the narrow road looking back on increasingly dramatic views. We ran into other adventurers in different types of vehicles making their way up the mountain. I will let the photos describe the beauty of what we saw. We came down from the mountain to the village of Applecross and stopped at a great place for lunch with the opportunity to walk to a local church and cemetery after our lunch break. I walked a bit with Julia, an attorney from Moscow, who looked much younger than her 30 something years. Julia posed for a photo on the bridge during our walk. I use Julia as an example of the one time meetings I had with different people on this five day adventure. We would meet, talk a little, share taking photographs of each other, say goodbye with the knowledge that we would not meet again. My friend from New Delhi, India is just one more example. I sat next to her in the back of the bus and we would chat a little, be quiet a little, and take photos of each other at various locations. She was in our group for two days, but then did not go to John O' Groats the next day. Perhaps it is a strange way to run a tour; but with the flexible choices the Tour Company provides, there is no other way. My five day traveling buddies from Saskatchewan were the only tour members that I was able to connect with for an extended period. We had dinner together one evening in Inverness and had the advantage of talking about the quality of tours we had for each of the five days. Malcolm, was our guide for Applecross and John O' Groats. He provided a welcome consistency for the the two days we spent on smaller vans. He was an expert driver on narrow roads and a knowledgeable and interesting guide. All of this inconsistent social interaction did not get in the way of some of the most beautiful landscapes witnessed on my entire journey of Ireland and Scotland.
John O' Groats, July 22, 2014
Our guide, Malcolm, picked me up last again, but this time he saved me a single seat close to the front of the van. This was our day to head to the very most northern part of Scotland where the terrain was considerably different than Skye or Applecross. This was a long day. We stopped at Dunrobin Castle with its beautiful grounds for a short visit. It overlooked the Moray Firth, also covered in fog. However, the gardens were sunny and bright. We did not tour the inside of the castle, but I was able to take a couple of photos before I was told to leave by the castle attendant. We witnessed some of the most beautiful farm lands that reminded my Saskatchewan friends of home. Barley for Scotch Whiskey is the crop you see all along the country side. We did not see tall mountains and numerous Lochs. I was really surprised by the flatness of the terrain in this northern section of Scotland. Although not as dramatic, it clearly displayed the diversity of the topography in the Scottish Highlands. I will let the photos tell the story. Our primary goal was to see the cliffs at Duncansby Head near John O' Groats, the second most Northern village in Scotland. On a clear day, according to Malcolm, you can see Norway. Unfortunately, not unlike the Cliffs of Moher in Ireland, we were not blessed with a clear day. It was sunny and warm during our inland bus ride, but the coast line in the north was foggy. You will see the fog in some of the photos. However, there were still some interesting shots to be had at the cliffs. My great pleasure on this fourth day of my journey in Scotland was to catch a very photogenic Puffin on the cliffs near John O' Groats. This Puffin was born with posing in its DNA. It sat on its perch for a good two minutes while all 16 of us clicked away to our heart's content. I included several different poses, but know that it is the same bird. There is a Puffin photo canvas or two in my future as a gift to another or as a wall hanging in my home. It was a day full of surprises, but I was happy to return to my B&B for the last night in Inverness. I took a stroll downtown and took some photos that I included in the earlier section on Inverness.
Our guide, Malcolm, picked me up last again, but this time he saved me a single seat close to the front of the van. This was our day to head to the very most northern part of Scotland where the terrain was considerably different than Skye or Applecross. This was a long day. We stopped at Dunrobin Castle with its beautiful grounds for a short visit. It overlooked the Moray Firth, also covered in fog. However, the gardens were sunny and bright. We did not tour the inside of the castle, but I was able to take a couple of photos before I was told to leave by the castle attendant. We witnessed some of the most beautiful farm lands that reminded my Saskatchewan friends of home. Barley for Scotch Whiskey is the crop you see all along the country side. We did not see tall mountains and numerous Lochs. I was really surprised by the flatness of the terrain in this northern section of Scotland. Although not as dramatic, it clearly displayed the diversity of the topography in the Scottish Highlands. I will let the photos tell the story. Our primary goal was to see the cliffs at Duncansby Head near John O' Groats, the second most Northern village in Scotland. On a clear day, according to Malcolm, you can see Norway. Unfortunately, not unlike the Cliffs of Moher in Ireland, we were not blessed with a clear day. It was sunny and warm during our inland bus ride, but the coast line in the north was foggy. You will see the fog in some of the photos. However, there were still some interesting shots to be had at the cliffs. My great pleasure on this fourth day of my journey in Scotland was to catch a very photogenic Puffin on the cliffs near John O' Groats. This Puffin was born with posing in its DNA. It sat on its perch for a good two minutes while all 16 of us clicked away to our heart's content. I included several different poses, but know that it is the same bird. There is a Puffin photo canvas or two in my future as a gift to another or as a wall hanging in my home. It was a day full of surprises, but I was happy to return to my B&B for the last night in Inverness. I took a stroll downtown and took some photos that I included in the earlier section on Inverness.
The Black Isle and Return to Edinburgh, July 23, 2014
So the van picked me up last again, but I was a saved a seat in the front. This was the last day of the tour and I was not expecting too much. We spent the morning and part of the afternoon enjoying the Black Isle, which is located just north of Inverness. We were able to spot some dolphins swimming in the Moray Firth, explore the Village of Cromarty, and travel the countryside of hills, heather, and small lochs. There are oil rigs off the coast of Scotland in the North Sea; and when they need maintenance, they bring them back to Cromarty for repairs. It causes an interesting environmental clash between the natural beauty of the area and the intrusion of ugly rigs. I am not sure how dramatic the photos below are, but they signify a sort of quiet ending to the trips of the previous days. When we joined up with the large bus at 4:30 PM for our trip back to Edinburgh, I was ready to conclude my trip to Ireland and Scotland. We arrived back in Edinburgh at 8:00 PM and I quickly returned to the same room that I had my first night in Scotland at the Old Waverly Inn. It served its purpose well.
So the van picked me up last again, but I was a saved a seat in the front. This was the last day of the tour and I was not expecting too much. We spent the morning and part of the afternoon enjoying the Black Isle, which is located just north of Inverness. We were able to spot some dolphins swimming in the Moray Firth, explore the Village of Cromarty, and travel the countryside of hills, heather, and small lochs. There are oil rigs off the coast of Scotland in the North Sea; and when they need maintenance, they bring them back to Cromarty for repairs. It causes an interesting environmental clash between the natural beauty of the area and the intrusion of ugly rigs. I am not sure how dramatic the photos below are, but they signify a sort of quiet ending to the trips of the previous days. When we joined up with the large bus at 4:30 PM for our trip back to Edinburgh, I was ready to conclude my trip to Ireland and Scotland. We arrived back in Edinburgh at 8:00 PM and I quickly returned to the same room that I had my first night in Scotland at the Old Waverly Inn. It served its purpose well.
Flying Home, July 24, 2014
I awoke at my usual early morning time, went out for a quick breakfast at McDonald's, and took a final short walk around the downtown area. I was still debating whether to take the new Tram to the airport (5 pounds) or the airport bus (4 pounds). I chose the bus because I thought I might see more of Edinburgh and I was in no hurry to get to the airport. I was surprised that the bus had free Wi-Fi, but it worked well as I could check out the news on the way to catch my flight. I boarded my flight on time and arrived at Newark Airport around 2 PM. I found the reentry area for international travelers to be more pleasant than JFK's drab and unattractive Passport Check Area. There was a line, but it moved fairly quickly and I met Gina for my ride home. We took the Palisades Parkway to I-287 and the Tappan Zee Bridge. The drive home was much more enjoyable than driving from JFK after my trips to Italy and China.
This was a great trip. I hope the narrative and the photos tell the story of how grateful I am for having been able to see Ireland and Scotland in all of its beauty, whether it be in rain, fog, or bright sun. I would like to return to parts of Ireland for an extended stay. Enniskillen is first on my list with probably a trip to Belfast for a first time look. I would also like to spend some more time in County Kerry. I am never sure how to end a life event like this one other than to say that I will keep you posted on my next adventure.
I awoke at my usual early morning time, went out for a quick breakfast at McDonald's, and took a final short walk around the downtown area. I was still debating whether to take the new Tram to the airport (5 pounds) or the airport bus (4 pounds). I chose the bus because I thought I might see more of Edinburgh and I was in no hurry to get to the airport. I was surprised that the bus had free Wi-Fi, but it worked well as I could check out the news on the way to catch my flight. I boarded my flight on time and arrived at Newark Airport around 2 PM. I found the reentry area for international travelers to be more pleasant than JFK's drab and unattractive Passport Check Area. There was a line, but it moved fairly quickly and I met Gina for my ride home. We took the Palisades Parkway to I-287 and the Tappan Zee Bridge. The drive home was much more enjoyable than driving from JFK after my trips to Italy and China.
This was a great trip. I hope the narrative and the photos tell the story of how grateful I am for having been able to see Ireland and Scotland in all of its beauty, whether it be in rain, fog, or bright sun. I would like to return to parts of Ireland for an extended stay. Enniskillen is first on my list with probably a trip to Belfast for a first time look. I would also like to spend some more time in County Kerry. I am never sure how to end a life event like this one other than to say that I will keep you posted on my next adventure.
Near Killarney: A Bit of Sun, a Bit of Mist, a Dramatic Passageway for Sheep, Cows, and Hikers